The Surf Journal

No Surf No Surf Win Windy

2008-06-06T15:08:00.000-07:00

When all else fails we think we have it all it goes flat. We live the life and now it is time to say goodbye. CJ is leaving town for a better life and now it the time to do what needs to be done. Life is short live large and love life and go for it. Make sense if not no worries.
Just think good thoughts and live large

Man it has been windy and small

2008-06-04T10:22:00.000-07:00

It was time I put something into my blog it has been a while. I have had some cool trips on a boat in the Santa Barbara Channel but nothing to write home about. This time of year the conditions will leave you frustrated and bummed due to lack of good surfing conditions. This is the time of year to hit the road south and make sure u get in on the Southern Hemi's.

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Hit and Miss Surf

2008-04-28T15:58:00.000-07:00

The waves have been a combination of wind swell and some minor ground swell but nothing of size or consistency. I broke down and purchased some 1.5 m gloves because I did not want to deal with the frozen hand syndrome every time I surfed. When I first got into the water with the gloves on I rejected them. They felt heavy and it was not the smooth balance I was used too. But after awhile it was like running with ankle weights on and I got into it and will use them when the cold windy days of spring and summer here on the Central Coast. Not much else to write about enough has been said about the Shark attack in Southern Ca. The individual knew the risk and went out doing what he loved I think it is a noble way to go better than a car eh?
Take care and keep the faith and say a prayer for Crazy Joe who took a fall and cracked his face a little....
Peace with one individual at a time. Give a child a chance to get to know some of our favorite animals.

Cold Water Blues

2008-04-16T14:37:00.000-07:00

Sorry for those of you who actually enjoy my Blog but I have not been getting any good surf and when I do it has been cold I mean cold... no more wining
When you are feeling cheap here is a old trailer park favorite!
Courtesy of Crazy Joe's SurfLounge.com
This is a good time to think about going to Mexico and then doing it

*THE TRAILER TRAMP* from “Neko”
--One 12-oz can of RC Cola, chilled OR warm depending on how fast you need a buzz (a worthy substitute is Sam's Cola, a fine product which may be purchased at your local Wal-Mart, or any good cheap generic cola)
--Two shots of really cheap vodka
--One shot of cheap triple sec
(You're going for cheapness here, so save the Grey Goose or Stoli for another time. RC is the official hillbilly cola choice of Neko, but Sam's does well in a pinch and besides, RC isn't available every place. Forget about ice. Ice wastes valuable space in the can which could otherwise be taken up by liquor.)

MIXING: Empty out about 3 oz. (one medium-sized swallow) of cola from the can so's you can get the booze in, then add the vodka & triple sec and give it a good stir with the handle of a fork or something. Drink it straight out of the can. You can add more booze as the level gets low in the can. You can use a funnel if you're really serious about measuring with a shot glass, but it's best to just pour your liquor straight from the bottle to the can and guesstimate how much you put in. Measuring with a shot glass wastes valuable drinking time. Besides, it's not too difficult: when the can's totally full, then you have enough liquor in it. The important thing is to drink it straight from the can because that is what makes a Trailer Tramp really special and also, you can walk around in the morning with one and everybody can pretend that you're not drinking yet.

Last Chance Romance

2008-04-01T16:35:00.000-07:00

This is the beginning of the end of winter. Spring has sprung and it is so cold I estimate the water temp was 48 and the wind chill was down there. I drove up to the parking lot and my friend was pulling out with his wet suit on saying" I was only in there 30 minutes and its too cold for only a few waves". This is not a good sign, but there was a swell and it was the last swell we were going to see for a while so I went for it.

When my hands first hit the water I could not believe how cold it was. I have been surfing these waters for 30 years and it was as cold as I have ever experienced it. It was a matter of mind over water and I kept telling myself to stay busy and not sit for to long. I managed to get a ton of waves and it was a great day. Once I started getting waves the cold did not seem to matter as much. I was in the water for about 90 minutes and had a great time.

When times get tough make sure you have plenty of beer on hand...

Things Can Change Overnight

2008-03-24T05:41:00.000-07:00

Life can be like a roller coaster and the swell just pushes it along.. What I am trying to say is as long as I can surf it makes the roller coaster ride more bearable. It is amazing how blessed we are living in California. I must say that with the state of the world today surfing again is paying off like a slot machine. Sometimes it hard for people to understand the life blood that flows thru a surfers veins. The excitement of harmonizing with nature is what it is all about. Weather conditions and physical conditions develop a map in your brain that keeps you on the hunt for more. It can be dangerous for your physical and also your mental and emotional well being. If you live the dream there is no alternative that will meet the need if you surf long enough. It becomes an addition that pushes you to continue to be a part of something you have no control over. The surfers life is one of rolling with the punches or seeking it out in various places around the world.

If you have a dream make sure you are healthy enough to enjoy it. I see to many people who put their dreams on the shelf and don't take a chance because they are afraid of failing or making a fool of themselves in front of friends and family. They fall out of shape because their jobs dictate how they live and what they do. Take a chance and learn from your own mistakes and don't make the same ones twice and you will be better because of the experience.

The last two surf sessions were off the jetty at dawn one day was epic and the next crap the roller coaster just keeps moving on.

Set yourself apart from the crowd by doing something and expect nothing in return today...
Peace

Two sessions no blog

2008-03-22T04:26:00.000-07:00

I have been in one of those funks that keep you from doing what you like. For some reason we do not treat ourselves like we should. In my case it has been one thing after another. The last two sessions have been spread apart and not so good. Last Saturday I went out at a low tide spot on high tide which means I did not get many waves but I did get a good work out and no one in the water. The down side is it was in a remote area that had lots of rocks and when you surf it on high tide there is a good chance you can wind up on those rocks if your not extra careful. I got the killer workout and it was all good.
Yesterday I did a local go out near my house. The wind was calm and the tide was good enough so my friend and I went out and had some shoulder to head high sets. It was a short session but I managed to meet my wave quota and get two really good ones. It always amazes me how the ocean always manages to produce fun waves even in less than conditions. In other words it is always a good go out as long as you get out there!

It is now Spring and time to plant the garden and grow your own greens....
Be good to yourself by helping others.

Two days at the Parking Lot

2008-03-11T23:41:00.001-07:00

The last two days I have been in the water at dawn. Daylight savings time took effect last Saturday so on Monday it was weird no one was at the Parking Lot. The sets were overhead and the tide was low. I wasted no time before the crowd would arrive. When I got into the line up I noticed how the low tide were causing the waves to pound the shore. I was a great go out not to many people showed up and all was good. The water and wind chill were hard to deal with I finally had to get out because I was soooooo cold.

Tuesday was a different story on the weather it was warm at dawn 62 with a slight offshore wind. The water even seemed to warm up a little. The waves were still coming in but it was a little smaller and less consistent. It was a great day by all and I managed to get the word from the boys in the parking lot I got the wave of the day so I felt good about that. I had other commitments I was in and out of there. Surfing is my exercise the best part is just getting in and the feeling you get when you get out of the cold conditions. The cold ocean will keep you hardy in spirit and soul.

You may never be what you hoped unless you have given it all you have...

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Back Home and Happy

2008-03-05T18:58:00.000-08:00

Our friends in the picture on the right lost their anchor on the way out to this famous surf spot. These guys tried to use a large piece of concrete but they were being dragging around. They asked if they could tie off on our boat and we thought that would be the best thing to do. We were gald to help and they were stoked. We all surfed our buts off for about 3 hours and it all was good.
It is always hard to come back to the crowds...I did it today and after having a great week I took it in stride. There were a few waves today but it was crowded and people were jonesing for waves. I caught a few good ones when I first hit the water. I waited and you guessed it I was rewarded. It was a fun day and I was so thankful just to be back home. The waves were about head high and some of the set waves carried thru into the inside. I caught a great wave for my last one got out and gave thanks....
Keep your mind on positive things and your energy will attract good people into your life.
Peace

Boat Trip Overnight with Greenflash Sunset

2008-03-04T15:36:00.000-08:00

I was lucky enough to get invited to go along with a friend for a short surf trip. Just the two of us and uncrowded surf conditions. We launched on Sunday in the late morning and arrived at our destination in the Santa Barbara Channel about 11am. When we arrived the tide was still a bit high but the waves were going off. We did not wait long before we were in the water and surfing for about 3 hours. We were feeling so good catching beautiful waves in warm offshore conditions. Then you paddle back over to the boat take your wetsuit off and soak some rays. Eat great food and have a cold one, life doesn't get much better. At the end of the day I decided to take a couple of pictures and by chance I captured the greenflash. I went to catch a few waves and that I did but the bonus was the pictures of a lifetime!

Go to the bottom of the page to see the Greenflash Sunset. The pics on the left had to shrink down and lost the green line.
Go to the bottom to see larger picture.

The green flash is an atmospheric refractive
phenomenon where the top edge of the Sun will
momentarily turn green. It is seen rarely by the naked
eye, primarily because it requires specific conditions
to occur, but also because it requires the observer to
know what to look for. Despite the name, there is no
"flash"; the event only lasts from a fraction of a
second to at the longest, a few seconds.

The basic cause for the green flash is that refraction
bends the light of the Sun. The atmosphere acts like a
weak prism, separating the light into different
colors. Bluer light is bent more strongly than red
light. However, the amount of refraction even at the
horizon is quite small: only a few seconds of arc (one
second of arc is 1/3600th of a degree). This effect is
magnified by the atmosphere itself. Layering in the
atmosphere causes an effect similar to a horizontal
cylindrical lens: the separation of the color bands is
exaggerated in the vertical direction, so that the
separation can be up to several minutes of arc.

What conditions are required to see the green flash?
The green flash is best observed when you have a clear
view of the horizon uncluttered by foreground objects
and pollution free. This usually means you need to see
a distance of several miles "out", almost to the point
where the curvature of the Earth defines the limit.
This is primarily why stories of seeing the green
flash frequently occur at the ocean. This is due to
the additional amount of atmosphere one is looking
through at the horizon when the Sun is setting. In
addition - and equally important - is the fact that
the line of sight is nearly parallel to the horizon.

OK, then, why is it called a "green" flash and not a
"blue" flash? Because contamination in the atmosphere
scatters blue light removing it from the line of
sight. More green light gets through and therefore is
more clearly seen. In extraordinary conditions, a
"blue" flash might be seen.

Actually, all celestial objects experience the same
effect near the horizon; it is possible to see "green
flashes" from the setting Moon, Venus, or bright stars
like Sirius.

Surf Local Eat Local

2008-02-28T15:46:00.000-08:00

The swell came up this morning and was a challenge. It was no easy paddle out for me today. The sets would not let up and the tide was low so I paid the price by taking about 25 waves on the head before I finally made it outside. Once outside I took off on a couple of big sets and I could see that it was only going to get better as the tide and swell worked together to produce some epic waves today, big and fast. I took out my gun today and left the long board behind. It was a good call I caught my quota and more I was stoked not to many people in the water and everyone was cool and having fun. I was so thankful so I gave my thanks and got out!

A Boat Ride

2008-02-28T15:27:00.000-08:00

Tuesday this week I made the trip to the Santa Barbara Coastline called the Ranch. The only way to get in if you do not own property is to boat in. We launched at 7am and were in the water surfing about 8:30. We chugged up the coastline and there was no wind and the swell had dropped from the previous day. When we first arrived it was still high tide and the surf was OK but as the tide dropped and the swell jacked up to head high on the sets. Some sweet and clean sets were had by all it was only use three and one other boat with three. We all had a great time. We started back south about 1pm and stopped for one more session before we had to leave. We stopped and to my surprise it was head high and a couple of feet over head on the sets. This was powerful and fun I was slammed more than once but it was all good. We surfed for over an hour and that was about all I could do before my arms fell off.
The place is so clean and peaceful no one around and the ocean was our playgrounds what fun for a bunch of men playing like boys...

First time back after 12 days out

2008-02-20T11:03:00.000-08:00

What a rush! I found out that my injury was not that bad and required no additional doctors care. I waited long enough. I went to my favorite parking lot yesterday and the boys were standing around talking about how they had to go to work. It was glassy and the sets were rolling in about every 8 to 10 minutes head high and clean. Well it took me about 5 minutes to get my wetsuit on and Bam I was out there.

My first wave was my best I sat at the outside peak waiting for a big set wave and it only took a few minutes. I was in the perfect spot for the take off when I got to my feet I knew I had to stay high in the face to make the sections out in front of me. I stayed in the top third of the wave just low enough to keep from getting pitched over the falls. It was a gas I was flying and felt weightless and the force drove me to the beach in a matter of second I traveled about 150 yards.
The crowd was light and friendly and my buddies were getting good ones all morning. I had a great time and look forward to this afternoon on the low tide I have my special spot only me and about 20 people will be there...

Feel the power and get in touch with your inner child SURF or whatever it is that keeps you young...

It has been awhile

2008-02-13T19:51:00.000-08:00

I have been on the IR (injured reserve) I tore a muscle in my right arm . I did it cutting down a tree that had suffered wind damage. I saved money on my tree and paid the price with my elbow. I will be going in for a MRI this week to find out exactly what happened to my elbow/muscle.
I have not been up for writing so I just have not been doing it. If there is anyone out there who wants to contribute to my blog contact me at stewywho@yahoo.com and we can see if it applies. I am looking for anything related to surfing, ie movies, pics repair, design ideas or techniques anything as it relates to surfing. I would like to see this blog expand into other relms of the sport. So if you want to contribute I am open.... Keep the faith I will be back in the water soon...

AeroGarden

Surfing on the Inside

2008-02-03T07:45:00.000-08:00

Yesterday was a planned go out. This particular place breaks on a low tide and big swell. Yesterday both those conditions along with the proper wind came together about noon. Since it was a Saturday and knowing how this place has only one outside take off zone I decided to get out early during the higher tide and avoid the crowd. So I paddled out about 11 am and it was the proper call. I was the first one in the water I parked were no one would know I was surfing and it worked. I surfed for about 30 minutes before the people started showing up. It was good for the entire time that I was in the water. This place breaks over the rocks and can be dangerous at times especially on high tide. I have damaged many a board at this spot pushing the limit going to far on the inside and getting tossed on the rocks. I am lucky nothing has happed to me but my boards have suffered. My wife was stuffed in the rocks only once and managed to get out with only scrapes and bruises. A lesson you never forget. At this place, the rock are stacked to create a jetty, each rock would fill up the bed of a full size pickup. Large objects like surfboards and people and easily get pushed in between or rolled over and get in very serious trouble in a split second.

I have a ton of respect for this place and always keep in mind that you must move quickly if you happen to get to close to the rocks.

The other side of the coin is, it breaks for about 150 yards on a good day, yesterday I rode a number of waves all the way in. It's a long paddle out but worth it, you get in good shape and ride long waves, what a deal. It got crowded and I rode my last wave all the way in gave thanks and got out...

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Local Day with Good Size

2008-01-31T14:32:00.000-08:00

I was presently surprised today as I went to my favorite spot but it just did not look appealing so I decided to head back home and see what was going on in the hood. It was definably the call. I caught some smoking waves today overhead and screaming down the line. I had three or four that were quick turns on the take off and stay up in the lip to make the screaming sections. I hit all the moves today floater, side slip or free fall, extrema take offs with the tide dropping it was all that and a bag of chips. Days like today surprise you all I wanted was to get wet and ended up getting so many fun waves I can only be thankful and I feel very fortunate that I get to experience this in my life at this point in my life. I will not be lacking for stories when I hit the rocking chair...

Keep the faith and do what you do best!

Make your own beer...

The Last Two Days

2008-01-30T08:03:00.000-08:00

I had to make a business trip to the Bay Area so I always try to plan it so I can stop by the spot I learned to surf at. Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz the surf capital of the Northern California. I was surfing there in the 70's when you were glad to see someone else in the water. It was a time when surfing was making a transition from long boards to short with Twin and Tri Fins. Back then the same 6 to 10 guys on the peak every morning we all looked out for each other and shared a common bond when the sport was not so popular.
Today however it has changed dramatically, when the waves are going off it is the same 75 people in the water. I try to avoid those situations but find myself going out anyway because the waves are so good so long and consistent it is hard to stay out. On Monday I arrived at the Point about 2:30 and it was not so good nor was it crowded. I made a quick decision to go out and surfed for a little over an hour. It was fun the people were friendly and it was primarily long boards. The peak was shifting back and forth but there were waves and it was a great experience. I got out in time managed to get a quick bite to eat and made it to my meeting one minute late!

Tuesday I was back home and went down to the parking lot early and no one was out. The waves were shoulder to head high and coming in about 10 minutes apart. I went out, caught about a dozen waves, and I was surprised that only a few others made it out. It was a good exercise session and put me in the right frame of mind to face my day. I gave my thanks and went about my day....

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South Winds a Blowing

2008-01-27T20:20:00.000-08:00

Today was a windy day from the start. I arrived at my favorite spot about 30 minutes before low tide. The wind was howling off shore and it was cold. The parking lot had not filled up for a Sunday but people were loading in the water. I decided to make a quick decision and go out. The conditions were fun I ended up going way down the beach because it was bigger and less people were there. It continued to build as the minutes went by I found myself stroking hard for the outside more than once to keep from getting a big wave on the head. The first reward was this double overhead bomber going left. With the wind blowing hard up the face of the wave and my 9ft long board going against the wind during the take off I was blinded. Bullets of water piercing my eyes as I got up to my feet in an instant I was looking at a big open face and I could hear guys hooting and howling as I pulled into a freight train of a wave turning up the face to get speed with smooth turns and tons of speed I took it all the way to the beach. What a rush it was so good and then to make it better, a large right peak came right at me I turned around and managed to make the take off. It was a perfect shaped wave moving so rapidly I only could come up to the top so I could draw a straight line and make the second section and kick out. I caught other waves today but the two fore mentioned waves made my day....

A Couple Short Stories and a Picture Peru

2008-01-24T14:47:00.000-08:00

That afternoon we made it to the famed Chicama. We
watched 17 waves stack to the horizon. Steve & Eric
hopped off at their first chance of surf. Magoo,
Mackie and I were dropped off at the top of the
point. This wave is so unbelievable. We were getting
rides two to three minutes long. There were fast
barrel sections, lazy areas for cruising and THIRTY
SECOND NOSE RIDES! It took us thirty minutes to run
back up to the top of the point. The best part was
that there was no one out! We surfed till our arms
fell off!

We had a wonderful surf at Chicama, a nice five foot
wave but pure hell....have you ever had your legs
actually go out on you ON A WAVE? You could not
physically surf the whole wave, it is impossible.
I've missed more tube rides, off the lips on one wave
at chicama than a week long trip at natividad because
i had noodle legs. What a helpless feeling being on a
wave and physically tired to the point of barely
standing up. You hear stories of the longest wave in
the world well i don't know what's the longest wave
but that's how long that wave is.

Sooooooo long you can't surf it and it's barely head high.

I got the call yesterday...

2008-01-24T09:14:00.000-08:00

I just finished lunch when my phone rang and it was one of my surf buddies at my favorite spot telling me it was working, glassy, no wind and peeling like cylinders. I was working and found a way to convince myself it was time to take a break and get some stoke. That took all of about 30 seconds of thinking about the conditions and how it was a window that I could not pass up. So what did I do, you guessed it, I went out. There was about 15 people on one spot but down the beach just a few spread out and it was bigger down there as a south was effecting the swell and causing it to wrap down the beach. I was correct it was going off down there and I had a blast with a couple of boys from town. The water was not too clean but what can I say when the conditions show themselves it is time to go. I surfed for about 90 minutes and work was calling so I gave my thanks and got out.

Today is a no go day. In the rain and wind I will work on my Internet businesses and keep the faith....

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It to Wet For Mee

2008-01-23T08:11:00.001-08:00

My last Surf Session was Sunday the most crowded day of the week. This particular day was an extreme tide and the swell was coming in and breaking inside and mushy. The reason I went out was the one or two waves every 10 minutes that were head high and breaking with a slight offshore wind. There was only one person on it, a friend of mine, so bingo I went for the exercise. I know the stormy weather is on its way and most likely I will be out of the water during the major run off from the rains. After a heavy rain the pollution from the land flows into the water. In large metropolitan areas it is really bad. You can imagine all the pollutants that make there way into the break zone! I have been sick or had ear infections after surfing after storms. So the plan is to wait a couple of days and then charge it again. If the waves are really good I may go out but make sure that I am getting the proper rest and eating correctly and I should be fine. The main thing is the ears, water will make it's way in under pressure of the surf, it is not be able to get out and that polluted water gets bacteria growth and infected. That is the concern you must be careful and pay attention to any slight infection get it medicated or stay out because they will not go away if you continue to get into the water. So much for the surfer version of health care... Here is something worth checking out underground music in Cali...

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Last Saturday

2008-01-21T05:45:00.000-08:00

It was Saturday morning and it was building, we have been having high tides in the early morning and it has been consistent with long waits. I was on this day, I sat outside and picked off the set waves with no one there, one after another. The conditions were great the waves were about head high on the sets and everyone was having a good time.

When you get into your fifties your mind keeps putting out the orders but the body will sometimes not get the message and you end up struggling to get it together and go with the flow. Saturday was not one of those days for me. I just did everything correctly and managed to do my dance with no one getting in my way or challenging me for the sets.

Little Feat one of my favorite Bands from the 70's wrote a song called YOUR MIND MAKES A PROMISE THAT YOUR BODY CAN'T FILL....

This sums it up as you grow older your mind wants to go forward but your body may not respond like your accustomed too. The point is simple you need to work out everyday if possible. The sport of Kings (surfing) has no time outs, no one to help you off the field and you must be in great shape or you will be pushed out or taken under. I live by this motto, you must challenge yourself everyday to keep yourself sharp and on the edge. The risk takers are the reward makers and if you have taken a risk and failed" you learn" and when you try again you know that your chances will increase with each effort. Surfing and life, what a metaphor for living, take calculated risks take yourself to the edge and take a look where few go and if you like what you see then keep going back for youth and vitality. Keep the body fit and you can abuse it to a certain extent. With the correct diet and exercise it becomes tomorrow not yesterday things may slip but they won't go away....

Keep yourself fit no matter what you do!

Two Days of Surf for me

2008-01-18T16:37:00.000-08:00

Thursday was a great day the sun was out it was about 49 degrees and the wind was blowing offshore.
It was 7am and the parking lot started to fill up quickly. I did not feel like surfing with a crowd so I paddled down the beach.
I was stoked to get a few waves without the all the smiling faces. The waves were moving in with a slight hint of a south swell mixed in with the north west swell. I caught two large set waves during my two hours in the water that stood out from the rest. The both were moving rapidly down the line, vertical walls with the winds holding them up, they both broke all the way to the inside. It was a fun day and the conditions were on my side.

Friday was a journey day. A good friend of mine called me the night before asking me if I wanted to go north in the morning. I waited about a half second and said I will be ready at the crack of dawn. It was 6:30 am and the conditions were ripe, the wind was blowing slight offshore and the tide was just high. These conditions call for a special place about 45 minutes up the coast in a remote area. My friend is 44 and he grew up here and knows all the spots and all the stories. I have lived here for almost 30 years and saw something for the first time yesterday. We were about 25 minutes into our journey and my pal pulls off the side of the road and pointed to the hills. I was amazed to see a full herd of ELK one large Male with a large RACK on his head with about 15 females and 6 small ones. What a site we pulled out the Binoculars and viewed them in their element they were about 1 mile away but they were on the side of a hill with no trees they were in plain site.
Every time I drive up north the feeling of freedom overcomes me. The open space, the untouched raw land and the wild animals that have survived man's occupation. It is my recommendation that if you ever get the chance to drive from Monterey to San Luis Obispo on Hy 1 do it. People come from all over the world to experience it. You can just drive thru to LA or SF or camp or hike or stay in cabins lots of choices and beauty to experience. Oh yea, the surf it was not all that great, we expected to see some big overhead surf but it was still too high tide. We were there and we were going out. It was a park you car and walk about 1/4 miles down a cliff to the open beach in a remote area with no one home! We were so stoked with our little bit of freedom, just us and the elements. The waves had a little warble because the tide was still a bit high. We had a chill by the time we got into the water and it made the cold water seem warm. The wetsuits they make these days get the job done, your warm and you still have tremendous flexibility.
The waves did not preform all that well but I managed to get two smoking ones that made my day. This big open beach makes you pay the price of admission. The sand bars are nasty the waves break hard on sand with a strong under toe and make it difficult to paddle through. You had to be selective and make sure you got through the shore pound quickly or like I said you will pay the price by taking a 10 to 20 waves on the head to get past the break line.
We both managed to get our quota, we surfed for about 90 minutes and got out. A couple of young surfers we know showed up and they paddled out after we left. The changing of the guard they had it to themselves and we went back to civilization.

Low Tide and Slamming

2008-01-15T09:49:00.000-08:00

Today was a go out for the conditioning. I went out yesterday and got super tired quickly. I did not surf so well but that is a sign of age. Once you hit your fifties you have good days and you have bad days. The body is a magnificent machine and if properly maintained it will last much longer when you need it. I was so tired yesterday it was an automatic reaction to suit up and get out there today. The sets were about 10 minutes apart but the low tide was in control. The take offs were steep and the ledges were hitting shallow water and compressing anything in its way, including me. I got out once rested for about 10 minutes and went back out caught three more waves the last one had a nice head high peak and it tapered down going left it was a good wave to give thanks and get out on, so I did.

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Today and Last Friday

2008-01-14T14:15:00.000-08:00

Today it was go out or go crazy. I am still sane however the waves were not so good but the exercise was great. The last couple of days it was going off, well overhead and consistent.
The show was on in our little town all the best surfers in our area showed up and there were some awesome displays of tube ridding. The waves were hitting the sand bar off the pier and it was showing signs of perfection. I did not go out because of the size and the crowds. I have been there done that. I was bummed I must admit for not going out, but my better judgement was telling me CHILL OUT... so I did.
That is why today was a must surf for me..

Friday Jan 11 was my day, I did a double session and had so much fun. It was crowded but it was going off. I hit my quota for wave count and then some. I gave thanks and got out only to get back in three hours later. I surfed until my arms could no longer perform the task I was asking of them.
It was a great day with great waves a rare experience to be cherished..

Keep the faith and make your own beer

Early Morning Go Out

2008-01-09T18:47:00.000-08:00

It was cold again, the waves dropped a couple of feet but the sets were coming in about every 10 minutes head high and over head. The conditions were epic a very slight offshore wind and glass all over.
The best part was only a couple other people came out and I pretty much had my pick of the litter as the sets rolled in. When the sun came up over the mountains it was so special. The clarity of it all was moving, it was crisp and clean the surface reflected the sunshine and I was feeling like the King.
The rest is history, I surfed for a little over an hour because I had commitments to attend to. If I did not I would have stayed another hour. What a start on the day, I felt great all day.

Keep yourself mentally fit by exercising your mind...don't forget to eat, drink and be merry.

Being There at Dawn

2008-01-08T18:51:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I had to work and it was all time at one of my favorite spots. The stories were consistent from a couple of my friends who I know do not exaggerate to much. The thing about surfers is that they do have a tendency to exaggerate similar to fisherman and the size of that fish they caught surfers are the same way. So after hearing the stories I was convicted to go out first thing so I could make it to work on time. My best friend and I were there at dark she was in first and when I was done walking the dog I followed.
We were the only ones in the water for about 30 minutes and then another guy came out. I had fun on the lefts they were short but had a nice steep take off. It was by no means all time but it was fun and I was so happy to be there. The sunrise today was red and orange the scattered clouds in the sky put out a reflection that was like a fire in the sky.

I want to say it was a great feeling to go to work knowing I had experienced a whole days wroth of joy before most people even get out of bed.....I gave thanks and got out!

Keep yourself healthy by getting the proper exercise and diet and don't forget your rest.
I believe if you do this you will be one of the fortunate ones who get do enjoy the physical pleasures life into the later years when others fall by the wayside...

Make your own Beer

The Day After

2008-01-06T17:34:00.000-08:00

Today it was a little smaller yet still big in most places and only a few places were holding the swell enough to make it work. If you go out in the wrong place in conditions like today you could be very sorry. The best case is you don't get any waves the worst case you get rescued or ?...

Needless to say the currents were running strong and the tide was dropping fast to a minus tide. This combined with the large swell and you have a recipe for success if you are in the place that will support those conditions. If you have local knowledge and make the move at the proper time u wind up where i surfed today. It was a long walk and a long paddle and when you come over the rise and see that your not the only one it still doesn't matter because the waves are coming in non stop. I went out and surfed and paddled until my arms were about to fall off. It was so fun and the crowd was so mellow it was all that and a bag of chips. I was stoked again and again.

So yesterday I turned another year older and we had some fun at home to much food and beer but being the old dude I was in bed early and ready to charge it in the morning. The swell and my schedule did not match and I had to wait until noon to get my turn today but it was well worth it.

Keep the faith and do what you do.....

Catch a vacation...

Nice Day No Surf

2008-01-03T16:13:00.000-08:00

Today it was flat but I know a NW Swell is going to be hitting tonight and tomorrow. I am in the working mode and have little or no time for surf. The days are shorter and my time is limited by commitments I have made. The good news is the cold weather will bring large swells and that is something to dwell on when your working or there is no surf.

Not much to add today keep your head up and look out for creeps around the corner.

www.cayucoscanoeclub.com

The End and Another Beginning

2008-01-01T16:08:00.001-08:00

Dec 31st was one on my best days of the year. I went out just looking to catch some stoke on the last day of the year. Well it turned out to be overhead and I was the only longboarder on the outside picking off all the set waves with no one to contend with. This is a rare experience for this place local to my home.

The wind was blowing hard offshore the water was cold I estimate 49F. The sets were a couple of feet overhead and looking like close outs. Needless to say the wind was holding them up long enough for me to fly across about 10 to 12 waves today. What a great way to finish off the year. It was not that crowded and only short boarders on the inside. So when the bombers came in I was there and with no one to contend with. The power and speed of those wave charged my batteries for a festive new years eve... I could not believe how good it was the last day of 2007 :-)

January 1st 2008
Today I went to the big parking lot. The sets were head high and looked fun to me. So without hesitation I put my suit on and paddled out. I was not looking for any guarantee just a couple fun ones to start off the year. Again I was rewarded with some serious waves and spent only a little over an hour in the water but my batteries were charged up again and I was ready to enjoy my first day of the year with a BBQ and a Beer.

I can only give thanks for the wonderful days when the sun is shinning the Sky's are clean and clear. I am a blessed soul, my surfing quota has been more that filled the past year. I was a lucky one to have the means to live out a dream of mine for many years, to surf for a year and hang out at home. I did my best to enjoy each day BBQ as often as possible and stand around a fire I arouses my primal instinct for survival....

2008-01-01T16:08:00.000-08:00

I am Back to Finish out the Year!

2007-12-29T12:56:00.000-08:00

I have been gone for a few days working and with family over it has been hard to get into the clubhouse to put down my Journal.

The surf has been off and on for the last few days. I went out on Christmas Day with my wife, daughter and her Bo. We went out at the Pier, it was big and consistent. The shape was not all that good but every 10 minutes a good wave would make it's way through to the beach. It was so much fun surfing with the family I really enjoyed the fact it was only us plus a few friends. It was a great way to start the day before we got into the presents and all that food. It was a great Christmas Day we all got waves, presents and ate like kings.

Today the surf was meager the sets had little shape hitting the shallow shoreline and slamming down hard. It was difficult to get into the pocket because there was so little time to surf before it closed out on the beach. I pearled on one wave and it tweaked my back but nothing bad. It was one of those days that the best part of surfing is how you feel when you get out. That explains it for me today. I had not been in the water for 4 days and it sure felt good to get back and then to relax after getting out. (The Good Life)

Keep your eye on the destination, things happen quickly life will leave you wondering what happened unless you take action. The metaphors I get from surfing have helped me in my personal and business life. In order to make things happen you need to go for it, do not hesitate or deliberate to long. ONCE YOU PADDLE IN YOU CAN ONLY REACT TO WHAT THE WAVE WILL GIVE YOU, LIFE IS THE SAME WAY. PEOPLE IN BUSINESS HAVE TO DEAL WITH SHARKS WITHIN THEIR OWN COMPANY. I WILL NOT HARP ON THE FACT THAT NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE OR WHO YOUR WORKING WITH THE STORY REMAINS THE SAME. TAKE ACTION AND LEARN HOW TO REACT TO PEOPLE AND STRESSFUL SITUATIONS WHEN THEY COME UP.

REACTION TIME IS NOW! ENJOY LIFE AND GO FOR IT EVEN IF IT MEANS NO GUARANTEE.

Oh yea buy yourself a Tommy Bahama Shirt Today for half price.

Are We Having Fun Yet?

2007-12-19T18:58:00.001-08:00

Hell ya!
The last couple of days have been rainy and stormy but today was crisp and clean. The waves are up and in my secret spot at noon no one was home! My two buddies and I plus all the waves we could surf for about 1 hour before others showed up, even then there were plenty for all. The conditions were sweet, no wind, glassy and consistent.

Today was one of those days I cherish. Not so much about the conditions as it is the people in the water. What a difference it makes when you are with friends who share and it is not about the pecking order, don't get me wrong because I am big on the pecking order. If u are in position its yours but to be greedy and not let others get in on the fun it is bad ju ju, no weno, bad Karma etc etc...

There is a big difference when people share and get along and being in the water is no different. The lesson learned in life come true in the water. It is real hard to fake it in the ocean. It is the proving ground for those who test themselves. If u think it is all fun and games think again when it get serious people can die.

With pleasure come pain, if now is your time to shine then do it and don't hold back.
My favorite saying in Surfing is..... HE WHO HESITATES IS LOST

Just go for it and commit yourself to yourself and u will be the best judge of all

Save Money

Rain Rain and More Rain

2007-12-18T06:32:00.000-08:00

No Surf today it is a mixed up jumbled up mess. The winter rain is here, we always look forward to any precipitation we can get in Central California.

Today I want to write about what has motivated me and others who dedicate ourselves to a sport that has a pecking order on water where we don't necessarily belong. Like anything else in life if you really want something u have to work at it and be patient with yourself and others who are effected by your dedication and discipline to achieve a goal. It helps to have a spouse who surfs and loves the water as I do!

When I started surfing in the 70's it was the time when the sport was really changing. The design and length were changing. People were going faster than ever and making radical moves and surfing larger waves in places people thought anyone could surf.

I could not help myself at 19 I was a ex-football player who had a 1 in 1,000 injury on the football field. It ended my career. I moved to Santa Cruz CA and started surfing. I picked up all sports prior to surfing with one try. This sport humbled me... I was muscle bound and my muscles would tie up and I would sink like a rock. I told myself I would never lift weights again and to this day I have never lifted weights again to get in shape. The ocean provides all the work out I could ever ask for and then some. Needless to say it took me almost six months to do the sport in its most basic fashion. Just to be able to paddle out catch a wave surf it to the end and paddle out for another with confidence and composure.

The water was not crowded then people were glad someone else was out because we had no leash or we had bungee cords that would spring the board at u at 100 MPH and nail u they did not last that long because more people were getting hurt it just was not practical.

Over the years since then I have raised two children who both attended college and I have retired from a traditional career to live my life out surfing and working on the Internet to make my surf lifestyle a dream come true for the rest of my surfing days....Check out my Beach Lifestyle Canoe Club!">cayucoscanoeclub.com

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for fun,video,music SWAG and so much more!

For some Excitment take sometime off and go somewhere!

Sunday Crowds & Some Size

2007-12-16T11:59:00.000-08:00

It was COLD today at the beach. We normally do not get into the 30's around here but today was an exception. The frost was everywhere when I drove to my favorite spot only to find 10 people in the water by dawn. There was good reason the sets were marching in like soldiers going to battle. I was not real quick to get my wetsuit on because it was freezing cold and my wetsuit was wet and cold from hanging outside over night.

I hung out with my friends for about an hour before the sun was up and it started to warm a little. Once I got into the water it was calm and warm in my estimation. Warmer than the air that is for sure. It was semi crowded but I went out and picked off a couple right out the gates. These waves were a little over head but they had some punch to them.

It was so much fun the only down side is people in this popular spot don't always know how to surf or they don't know the etiquette. This is the dangerous part because if they do not know what to do in a critical situation someone is going to get hurt.
Enough said on Sunday it is expected. I had fun gave my thanks and said CYA all...

when your done surfing or whatever make sure u have the correct BBQ equipment to party like a rock star.

Saturday Surfing

2007-12-15T13:12:00.000-08:00

I had a busy week no surf Monday Thru Friday only work. I must say today was a great day for a Saturday, I waited until the tide came up and went out about 11am. Most of the crowd was gone and only a few people spread out nobody was sitting on top of each other. The water was clean and u could see the bottom as u paddeled out and when I surfed the waves.

Today was sunny the water was warm there was no wind to speak of. The Faces of the waves were so clean. I enjoyed the friendly crowd people were having a good time. I surfed about two hours it sure felt good to get back in the water. I have been addicted to surfing for many years. It seems to me that the limited time we have on this earth we must be doing what we love even if it is only on the weekends. I raised two children and missed a ton of days but I always made the extra effort to go early in the mornings so I could make it to work on time.

Too Cold Too Small Too Old

2007-12-13T08:25:00.000-08:00

You think I am Crazy when I was younger yes... Today No I am going to sit this one out it is so small and cold the wind is blowing (no warm trade winds here) off shore. Today is a good day to bundle up and stay dry. This is a day for surfers to do something else like work. I know that will mess up a perfectly good surf schedule. The work must be done and for those who work in the surf industry another day another dollar. I like the fact that I have always separated surf with work or money. I have tried surf related items like clothing etc. I have kept surfing my sole place where my focus is only on the waves and when I am in the water I blank out all the things that take place on land and leave them there to the best of my ability. It takes 100% of my concentration when it is going off. My experience(old fart)has proven it time and time again. The sharpening of your focus skills is what it is all about. Block out all other agenda and have fun doing it.

Check out my Beach Lifestyle Canoe Club!">cayucoscanoeclub.com

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for fun,video,music SWAG and so much more!

To Cold To Go

2007-12-12T06:54:00.000-08:00

It is early morning and I can't get myself to think about going in the water until the sun comes up.
Normally I would be there but I have been working a lot and my passion wants to stay warm and the mornings are not cooperating. It has been two days in a row without surf for me. I may still go but I doubt it because I have other commitments today. This is the pain of working and surfing they are like oil and water they have a hard time coexisting.

Keep your focus on doing what u love and everything will work out...

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Sunday Session

2007-12-09T15:48:00.000-08:00

Early morning go out after late go out yesterday. Today is Sunday and I have commitments and need to get in and out in the morning if I want to get wet today. So I did and it was not crowded for a Sunday and the waves had a little juice still in them. I surfed for about 90 minutes and had three waves that made my day. It was sunny offshore and cold! Gave Thanks and got out!

Today is another sad day for the loss of another fine Individual who had an effect on so many lives. This individuals was Patty Silvera who was a local Secretary at our school. She worked for 30 years in a small community and she was there for my two children. The crowning moment for us was when our son who was in second grade was hurt at school and she supplied the mothering skills that kept us all in check. Hundreds of people showed up today at her celebration at our local Veterans Hall. I was especially touched by her just getting to talk to her for only a few minutes on a regular basis at 6am in the morning. Her positive voice and warm tone always made me feel special. Oh yea my wife has worked with her substituting and working with Patty closely for so many years we are deeply touched by this loss. You see she was only 60 and it happened over the weekend and it was like an earthquake in our community. It was pointed out today that it is extraordinary and when people who are good and they pass early or late. When those who do evil or those who's only concern is for themselves leave nothing behind. This Woman was an example to us all to check ourselves and make sure u are helping others with nothing expected in return.
God Bless and Good luck out there....
Remember give thanks and get out!

Surf Till Dark

2007-12-08T18:27:00.000-08:00

Today was a cold and windy day. The swell is still up at my usual spot and to big and blown to surf. This means finding the place where the weather and swell can come together and produce a few fun ones for the crew. Guess what that is just what happened today. A small group of us who all know each other had the pleasure of sharing the windy conditions and a ton of waves. They were coming in like a machine for awhile. This place requires that you paddle across a fairly large body of water with the tide dropping u get sucked out to sea if you are not careful. The tide was going to a minus and it was moving quickly. The wind was blowing really hard with gusts that could move u standing still. Once there the rest is history shoulder high fun waves were had by all. It was a classic winter day here in Central Cal. Surfed till Dark gave thanks and made the journey back to the warm and cozy home...

No Surf Days 12-6 and 12-7

2007-12-07T09:15:00.000-08:00

Time to get work done and take care of business so I can surf when it's good again. Stormy conditions and lots of wind. A few showers and cold makes it a perfect time to start a fire fill up the coffee cup and write up a business plan. Time is moving rapidly as we head twards the holidays. I am doing all my shopping for the first time online.
Here are my two favorite ways of getting new and used items and prices below retail.

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Big Wednesday in Santa Barbara

2007-12-06T08:43:00.000-08:00

Yesterday a friend of mine and I drove two hours to find some surf that was manageable for us. We would have stayed home but it was just too big for our comfort zone. However everybody and their brother was thinking the same thing. In all my 33 yrs of surfing that was the most people I have ever been in the water with at one time. The LA crowds have made it to SB. There were beautiful waves some sets as many as 20 waves in a row. I saw so many waves and they all had someone or someone dropping in on them. I managed to get about a half dozen or so but could have caught 20 more easily if it weren't for the crowds. I am dating myself but I have seen better days. The popularity of the sport and the fact that it has been introduced to the Internet has brought people on the pulse of the storms and wave conditions that would have only herd about it after. The old school of going out and looking at the ocean or your favorite spots is past. Get on the Internet check out all the variables and know exactly where to go based on the weather info and swell conditions.
It was awesome just being in the water and seeing all the surfers enjoying what they were given.
The ocean pecking order was convoluted yesterday but the sport of Kings will live on......

Just a note for Peter Davi who died out in this swell Tuesday. He was a big wave rider and he went out the way of a true warrior. He will be missed and remember by many.

12-4-07

2007-12-04T12:34:00.000-08:00

Building Tuesday. The waves jumped up overnight to about 12 to 15 ft today. They are expected to top 25ft tomorrow. I looked and looked today but decided it was to big and mixed up inside the harbor. People were out but no one was getting anymore than a big drop with very little shape to follow. I hung out and watched as the giant waves break outside the harbor mouth and worked their way into shore. People were out in various places a finger jetty, a break wall jetty and then south jetty all had someone there waiting and hoping for a big ride. Beautiful sunny day and everyone was out to enjoy the day and watch the big waves. I went for a couple taco treats and then home....maybe tomorrow a drive south?
Great Gift Idea AeroGarden

12-3-07

2007-12-03T17:36:00.000-08:00

Today was a good day! I waited until about 8:30 to go out because it was so cold. When I pulled up to the parking lot the lines were coming in. I did not hesitate to go out. I put on my wetsuit as fast as I could get it on. I was in a hurry because a friend of mine called me and let me know it was going off. I went out and the waves were building the tide was dropping and it was glassy. The conditions were ripe and I was ready to pick off a couple clean ones. I did that very thing I was out in the water for 3 hours today. The set waves were head high and clean, the wind was calm and much fun was had by all! I could not paddle anymore and it was time to go. I gave my thanks and got out.
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12-2-07

2007-12-02T15:52:00.000-08:00

No Surf for me again today. Just hang around the house it is a cold day good time to start a fire and watch some Sunday Sports. The swell will start arriving tomorrow. In the meantime check out anything you can think of on Amazon.. I just purchased two Giant Wave Poster for Christmas Presents.

12-1-07

2007-12-01T12:22:00.000-08:00

Another no surf day again for me :( It was crowded and the tide was low in the morning here at home. The water was semi crowded with very few waves. The swell is picking up and next week it supposed to get giant like 20ft range. I will be surfing in a protected area that will take swell of that size and make it manageable 8 to 10 waves. I will get my rest and eat the proper food and not drink to much so I can log a few more in....
For now I am bidding for Tommy Bahama Shirts for Christmas Gifts
and getting a lot done in one day no gas no hassle.

11-30-07

2007-11-30T13:56:00.000-08:00

No surf day stormy and cold. The swell is coming we just have to wait. Good time to get some work done. Tommy Bahama Shirts for Christmas Presents at reduced prices go for it!

11-29-07

2007-11-29T16:59:00.000-08:00

Today was what I call a go out day. You go out to stay in shape and keep your timing sharp. I caught a couple when I first paddled out the wind was blowing off shore the water was cold and it was pretty inconsistent. It was not to crowded because there were not that many waves. It was a short go out but I felt much better once I got dressed. Another great day in my little beach town.

11/27.07

2007-11-27T16:27:00.000-08:00

It was cold this morning at 6:45 when I left the house. The swell has dropped about 2 ft and the wind is blowing offshore and cold. I did not hang out my wetsuit last night and it is wet and cold. I went out to my favorite spot and there were very few people in the water. The sets were coming in waist to shoulder high. Not to much to get excited about but it warmed up a little and fun was had by all. I Surfed with a couple of my buddy's which is always fun to share the wealth!

11/25/07 and 11/26/07

2007-11-26T11:12:00.000-08:00

11/25/07 The surf was too big and closing out so my regular places were not happening however I do have a spot I go to on big swells but it only breaks on low tide. Low tide was not until 4:30pm. I decided to wait and when I went back about 2:30 the spot was packed with people. Not just any people but all the locals who know how to surf that spot with only one or two take off spots it becomes a challenge to just get a wave. So about 15 people were out and I decided to wait until the last hour of the day. I went out at 4pm surfed until 6pm 30 minutes after dark. This place has rocks all over. There were only 8 people left out by the time I was at the peak. I had a ton of fun surfed about a dozen waves and the last two were in the dark. There was cloud cover and u could not see he face of the wave it was a black surface and I was surfing on feel. I gave thanks and got out...

11/26/07
I was back at it first thing in the morning at my favorite spot we will call parking lots. Today was much bigger it was well over head and almost double overhead on some of the sets. I went out early about 7am and took off on some big mambos! The wave of the day for me was about a 12 ft face top to bottom on the front of the wave. I took off in perfect position and made the drop and turned into a very large face with about 75 yards in front of me was a tapered wall just waiting for me to rip across the face. I made four cutbacks on this monster and on the inside I came off a slight bump in the wave and fell. That was the big daddy for me today. I took off on a few more waves and was getting tired since I was out until dark the night before. I had my board ripped out of my hands on a big set and my leash broke. My board was washed in and I had to swim for about ten minutes in big surf no fun at 51 yrs old. I called a buddy of mine over to me t0 let me hold on to his board for a minute to rest. He came and made sure I was OK. I had a slight cramp in my hamstring in my left leg. This really put the scare in me but I made it in and all is good for another day. I gave my thanks and got out tired and stoked!

11-24-07

2007-11-24T11:36:00.000-08:00

Today I made it out about 9:30 just down the street. The swell has dropped down to 2 to 3 feet with occasional shoulder high wave. It was sunny and offshore again today. The water was cold and clear the wind was warn. I surfed with my Wife and Daughter and her boyfriend. It has been fun to spend time in the water together we are making memories to last a lifetime. It is always a better day after surfing....give thanks and get out.

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Happy Thanksgiving

2007-11-22T05:17:00.000-08:00

Its early and still dark outside. I hope to get in the water for about a hour before we do our Turkey Day Drive. Type in surf books below and see some great books for gifts or your personal collection.

I went out with my wife, daughter and her boyfriend for the Thanksgiving Day surfing cup award. It was only the four of us down the street from our house. The surf was small but the shape was clean and fun. We surfed for about 90 minutes, we all caught some juicy waves hooting and howling for each other. My wife gave out the awards at dinner later that day . It was so much fun surfing with my family, I look forward to some travels with my wife who is a great body boarder and friend to this surf junkie.
We all gave thinks and got out of the water ready for our Turkey Day drive.

2007-11-22T05:08:00.000-08:00

11-21-07

2007-11-21T12:26:00.000-08:00

Today the winds were too much of a good thing! It was blowing so hard I had to close my eyes at the take off on some of the waves because it was like bullets hitting u in the face. The waves were so fun the swell was about 3 to 5 feet and as the tide dropped the swell picked up and started firing the take offs were steep and quick. I had a run in with a knee boarder(a surfer who surfs on his knees on a short board) he did not like the fact that I took off down the line on a wave he never would have made but he complained and I let him know that he would have never made that wave on his best day. I also offered him some special words of encourgement that I will not share with u but u can use your imagination. Other than that one bad experience it so much fun I was in the water for 3 hours today. Cold and windy but the sun came out and it turned into a 70 degree sunny day. Gave thanks and got out.

The Beginning

2007-11-20T06:01:00.000-08:00

Beckersurf.coms" src="http://www.tqlkg.com/image-2666794-10441535" border="0" height="250" width="250">

My nickname is Boog
First and foremost I have surfed for 33 years. I have done this longer than any other activity in my life. I have been blessed with natural physical ability to pick up the sport when I was 18 yrs old. I played the traditional sports growing up. I lived 80 miles from the Pacific Ocean near the San Francisco Bay Area. I was going to be a football player and focused all my energy in that direction until I was injured at 17yrs old(a one in a thousand injury on the football field) the injury ended my football career but thank God I could still walk. It was before microscopic surgery, so they put my ankle back together and attached it to my leg again and after nine months I could walk again. I moved to Santa Cruz Ca once I graduated High School and started surfing and the rest is history. I have traveled and surfed various places around the world but most of my surfing has been in California. Time to go it is getting light and time to check the surf.

I went out at a place about a mile from my house, I call it cylinders because it produces tubes on a regular basis. Today was no different for the lucky the tube was up and running today. The way the waves were breaking at this particular spot the peak of the wave was moving because the sand on the rocks causes changes on the bottom all the time and the peak moves back and forth or will peak at the same time and break towards each other. Today the wind was blowing offshore but very cold in the morning and the water it was cold about 54 degrees it was a challenge to get motivated to put on the cold wetsuit and get in. I slid into the back of my truck which has a small shell so I could get out of the wind and change.
Once in the water I could tell the tide was dropping and the waves were breaking in shallow water and slamming hard on the sand. U want to make sure your not caught in there for any period of time because it will snap u and or your board. Today was more of a wind swell which means the waves were close together and consistent with very little time in between waves and sets. (Waves come in sets from three to 7 and even sometimes more depending on how powerful the swell is) today they were arriving in sets of 3 to 5 waves with short periods of time 5 minutes or less apart. The Sets were about head high today 4 to 6 foot.
This was so much fun many take offs with offshore winds holding up the face of the wave which allowed me time to move down the line with my 9ft Steward high performance long board. The best wave today was a set wave(the largest wave of the set) I took off on the outside the wave was lined up to break down the line in front of me with no time to cutback just pull a turn on the take off get your line and race across the face. As I approached the beach the wave started to form a cylinder or TUBE the perfection of the wave becomes overwhelming and I pull up into the tube and the silence of being inside happens for a brief second and the wave ends as I come flying out of the tube. My board is released under my feet I free fall into the white water it engulfed me and I pop to the surface stoked and ready to paddle back out. I surfed for another 20 minutes gave thanks and went in....lots of take offs today most of the waves were close outs!

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