Local Day with Good Size

I was presently surprised today as I went to my favorite spot but it just did not look appealing so I decided to head back home and see what was going on in the hood. It was definably the call. I caught some smoking waves today overhead and screaming down the line. I had three or four that were quick turns on the take off and stay up in the lip to make the screaming sections. I hit all the moves today floater, side slip or free fall, extrema take offs with the tide dropping it was all that and a bag of chips. Days like today surprise you all I wanted was to get wet and ended up getting so many fun waves I can only be thankful and I feel very fortunate that I get to experience this in my life at this point in my life. I will not be lacking for stories when I hit the rocking chair...

Keep the faith and do what you do best!

Make your own beer...

The Last Two Days

I had to make a business trip to the Bay Area so I always try to plan it so I can stop by the spot I learned to surf at. Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz the surf capital of the Northern California. I was surfing there in the 70's when you were glad to see someone else in the water. It was a time when surfing was making a transition from long boards to short with Twin and Tri Fins. Back then the same 6 to 10 guys on the peak every morning we all looked out for each other and shared a common bond when the sport was not so popular.
Today however it has changed dramatically, when the waves are going off it is the same 75 people in the water. I try to avoid those situations but find myself going out anyway because the waves are so good so long and consistent it is hard to stay out. On Monday I arrived at the Point about 2:30 and it was not so good nor was it crowded. I made a quick decision to go out and surfed for a little over an hour. It was fun the people were friendly and it was primarily long boards. The peak was shifting back and forth but there were waves and it was a great experience. I got out in time managed to get a quick bite to eat and made it to my meeting one minute late!

Tuesday I was back home and went down to the parking lot early and no one was out. The waves were shoulder to head high and coming in about 10 minutes apart. I went out, caught about a dozen waves, and I was surprised that only a few others made it out. It was a good exercise session and put me in the right frame of mind to face my day. I gave my thanks and went about my day....

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South Winds a Blowing

Today was a windy day from the start. I arrived at my favorite spot about 30 minutes before low tide. The wind was howling off shore and it was cold. The parking lot had not filled up for a Sunday but people were loading in the water. I decided to make a quick decision and go out. The conditions were fun I ended up going way down the beach because it was bigger and less people were there. It continued to build as the minutes went by I found myself stroking hard for the outside more than once to keep from getting a big wave on the head. The first reward was this double overhead bomber going left. With the wind blowing hard up the face of the wave and my 9ft long board going against the wind during the take off I was blinded. Bullets of water piercing my eyes as I got up to my feet in an instant I was looking at a big open face and I could hear guys hooting and howling as I pulled into a freight train of a wave turning up the face to get speed with smooth turns and tons of speed I took it all the way to the beach. What a rush it was so good and then to make it better, a large right peak came right at me I turned around and managed to make the take off. It was a perfect shaped wave moving so rapidly I only could come up to the top so I could draw a straight line and make the second section and kick out. I caught other waves today but the two fore mentioned waves made my day....

A Couple Short Stories and a Picture Peru

That afternoon we made it to the famed Chicama. We
watched 17 waves stack to the horizon. Steve & Eric
hopped off at their first chance of surf. Magoo,
Mackie and I were dropped off at the top of the
point. This wave is so unbelievable. We were getting
rides two to three minutes long. There were fast
barrel sections, lazy areas for cruising and THIRTY
SECOND NOSE RIDES! It took us thirty minutes to run
back up to the top of the point. The best part was
that there was no one out! We surfed till our arms
fell off!

We had a wonderful surf at Chicama, a nice five foot
wave but pure hell....have you ever had your legs
actually go out on you ON A WAVE? You could not
physically surf the whole wave, it is impossible.
I've missed more tube rides, off the lips on one wave
at chicama than a week long trip at natividad because
i had noodle legs. What a helpless feeling being on a
wave and physically tired to the point of barely
standing up. You hear stories of the longest wave in
the world well i don't know what's the longest wave
but that's how long that wave is.

Sooooooo long you can't surf it and it's barely head high.

I got the call yesterday...

I just finished lunch when my phone rang and it was one of my surf buddies at my favorite spot telling me it was working, glassy, no wind and peeling like cylinders. I was working and found a way to convince myself it was time to take a break and get some stoke. That took all of about 30 seconds of thinking about the conditions and how it was a window that I could not pass up. So what did I do, you guessed it, I went out. There was about 15 people on one spot but down the beach just a few spread out and it was bigger down there as a south was effecting the swell and causing it to wrap down the beach. I was correct it was going off down there and I had a blast with a couple of boys from town. The water was not too clean but what can I say when the conditions show themselves it is time to go. I surfed for about 90 minutes and work was calling so I gave my thanks and got out.

Today is a no go day. In the rain and wind I will work on my Internet businesses and keep the faith....

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It to Wet For Mee

My last Surf Session was Sunday the most crowded day of the week. This particular day was an extreme tide and the swell was coming in and breaking inside and mushy. The reason I went out was the one or two waves every 10 minutes that were head high and breaking with a slight offshore wind. There was only one person on it, a friend of mine, so bingo I went for the exercise. I know the stormy weather is on its way and most likely I will be out of the water during the major run off from the rains. After a heavy rain the pollution from the land flows into the water. In large metropolitan areas it is really bad. You can imagine all the pollutants that make there way into the break zone! I have been sick or had ear infections after surfing after storms. So the plan is to wait a couple of days and then charge it again. If the waves are really good I may go out but make sure that I am getting the proper rest and eating correctly and I should be fine. The main thing is the ears, water will make it's way in under pressure of the surf, it is not be able to get out and that polluted water gets bacteria growth and infected. That is the concern you must be careful and pay attention to any slight infection get it medicated or stay out because they will not go away if you continue to get into the water. So much for the surfer version of health care... Here is something worth checking out underground music in Cali...

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Last Saturday

It was Saturday morning and it was building, we have been having high tides in the early morning and it has been consistent with long waits. I was on this day, I sat outside and picked off the set waves with no one there, one after another. The conditions were great the waves were about head high on the sets and everyone was having a good time.

When you get into your fifties your mind keeps putting out the orders but the body will sometimes not get the message and you end up struggling to get it together and go with the flow. Saturday was not one of those days for me. I just did everything correctly and managed to do my dance with no one getting in my way or challenging me for the sets.

Little Feat one of my favorite Bands from the 70's wrote a song called YOUR MIND MAKES A PROMISE THAT YOUR BODY CAN'T FILL....

This sums it up as you grow older your mind wants to go forward but your body may not respond like your accustomed too. The point is simple you need to work out everyday if possible. The sport of Kings (surfing) has no time outs, no one to help you off the field and you must be in great shape or you will be pushed out or taken under. I live by this motto, you must challenge yourself everyday to keep yourself sharp and on the edge. The risk takers are the reward makers and if you have taken a risk and failed" you learn" and when you try again you know that your chances will increase with each effort. Surfing and life, what a metaphor for living, take calculated risks take yourself to the edge and take a look where few go and if you like what you see then keep going back for youth and vitality. Keep the body fit and you can abuse it to a certain extent. With the correct diet and exercise it becomes tomorrow not yesterday things may slip but they won't go away....

Keep yourself fit no matter what you do!