11/25/07 and 11/26/07

11/25/07 The surf was too big and closing out so my regular places were not happening however I do have a spot I go to on big swells but it only breaks on low tide. Low tide was not until 4:30pm. I decided to wait and when I went back about 2:30 the spot was packed with people. Not just any people but all the locals who know how to surf that spot with only one or two take off spots it becomes a challenge to just get a wave. So about 15 people were out and I decided to wait until the last hour of the day. I went out at 4pm surfed until 6pm 30 minutes after dark. This place has rocks all over. There were only 8 people left out by the time I was at the peak. I had a ton of fun surfed about a dozen waves and the last two were in the dark. There was cloud cover and u could not see he face of the wave it was a black surface and I was surfing on feel. I gave thanks and got out...

11/26/07
I was back at it first thing in the morning at my favorite spot we will call parking lots. Today was much bigger it was well over head and almost double overhead on some of the sets. I went out early about 7am and took off on some big mambos! The wave of the day for me was about a 12 ft face top to bottom on the front of the wave. I took off in perfect position and made the drop and turned into a very large face with about 75 yards in front of me was a tapered wall just waiting for me to rip across the face. I made four cutbacks on this monster and on the inside I came off a slight bump in the wave and fell. That was the big daddy for me today. I took off on a few more waves and was getting tired since I was out until dark the night before. I had my board ripped out of my hands on a big set and my leash broke. My board was washed in and I had to swim for about ten minutes in big surf no fun at 51 yrs old. I called a buddy of mine over to me t0 let me hold on to his board for a minute to rest. He came and made sure I was OK. I had a slight cramp in my hamstring in my left leg. This really put the scare in me but I made it in and all is good for another day. I gave my thanks and got out tired and stoked!