First time back after 12 days out

What a rush! I found out that my injury was not that bad and required no additional doctors care. I waited long enough. I went to my favorite parking lot yesterday and the boys were standing around talking about how they had to go to work. It was glassy and the sets were rolling in about every 8 to 10 minutes head high and clean. Well it took me about 5 minutes to get my wetsuit on and Bam I was out there.

My first wave was my best I sat at the outside peak waiting for a big set wave and it only took a few minutes. I was in the perfect spot for the take off when I got to my feet I knew I had to stay high in the face to make the sections out in front of me. I stayed in the top third of the wave just low enough to keep from getting pitched over the falls. It was a gas I was flying and felt weightless and the force drove me to the beach in a matter of second I traveled about 150 yards.
The crowd was light and friendly and my buddies were getting good ones all morning. I had a great time and look forward to this afternoon on the low tide I have my special spot only me and about 20 people will be there...

Feel the power and get in touch with your inner child SURF or whatever it is that keeps you young...