11-30-07

No surf day stormy and cold. The swell is coming we just have to wait. Good time to get some work done. Tommy Bahama Shirts for Christmas Presents at reduced prices go for it!

11-29-07

Today was what I call a go out day. You go out to stay in shape and keep your timing sharp. I caught a couple when I first paddled out the wind was blowing off shore the water was cold and it was pretty inconsistent. It was not to crowded because there were not that many waves. It was a short go out but I felt much better once I got dressed. Another great day in my little beach town.

11/27.07

It was cold this morning at 6:45 when I left the house. The swell has dropped about 2 ft and the wind is blowing offshore and cold. I did not hang out my wetsuit last night and it is wet and cold. I went out to my favorite spot and there were very few people in the water. The sets were coming in waist to shoulder high. Not to much to get excited about but it warmed up a little and fun was had by all. I Surfed with a couple of my buddy's which is always fun to share the wealth!

11/25/07 and 11/26/07

11/25/07 The surf was too big and closing out so my regular places were not happening however I do have a spot I go to on big swells but it only breaks on low tide. Low tide was not until 4:30pm. I decided to wait and when I went back about 2:30 the spot was packed with people. Not just any people but all the locals who know how to surf that spot with only one or two take off spots it becomes a challenge to just get a wave. So about 15 people were out and I decided to wait until the last hour of the day. I went out at 4pm surfed until 6pm 30 minutes after dark. This place has rocks all over. There were only 8 people left out by the time I was at the peak. I had a ton of fun surfed about a dozen waves and the last two were in the dark. There was cloud cover and u could not see he face of the wave it was a black surface and I was surfing on feel. I gave thanks and got out...

11/26/07
I was back at it first thing in the morning at my favorite spot we will call parking lots. Today was much bigger it was well over head and almost double overhead on some of the sets. I went out early about 7am and took off on some big mambos! The wave of the day for me was about a 12 ft face top to bottom on the front of the wave. I took off in perfect position and made the drop and turned into a very large face with about 75 yards in front of me was a tapered wall just waiting for me to rip across the face. I made four cutbacks on this monster and on the inside I came off a slight bump in the wave and fell. That was the big daddy for me today. I took off on a few more waves and was getting tired since I was out until dark the night before. I had my board ripped out of my hands on a big set and my leash broke. My board was washed in and I had to swim for about ten minutes in big surf no fun at 51 yrs old. I called a buddy of mine over to me t0 let me hold on to his board for a minute to rest. He came and made sure I was OK. I had a slight cramp in my hamstring in my left leg. This really put the scare in me but I made it in and all is good for another day. I gave my thanks and got out tired and stoked!

11-24-07

Today I made it out about 9:30 just down the street. The swell has dropped down to 2 to 3 feet with occasional shoulder high wave. It was sunny and offshore again today. The water was cold and clear the wind was warn. I surfed with my Wife and Daughter and her boyfriend. It has been fun to spend time in the water together we are making memories to last a lifetime. It is always a better day after surfing....give thanks and get out.

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Happy Thanksgiving

Its early and still dark outside. I hope to get in the water for about a hour before we do our Turkey Day Drive. Type in surf books below and see some great books for gifts or your personal collection.


I went out with my wife, daughter and her boyfriend for the Thanksgiving Day surfing cup award. It was only the four of us down the street from our house. The surf was small but the shape was clean and fun. We surfed for about 90 minutes, we all caught some juicy waves hooting and howling for each other. My wife gave out the awards at dinner later that day . It was so much fun surfing with my family, I look forward to some travels with my wife who is a great body boarder and friend to this surf junkie.
We all gave thinks and got out of the water ready for our Turkey Day drive.

11-21-07

Today the winds were too much of a good thing! It was blowing so hard I had to close my eyes at the take off on some of the waves because it was like bullets hitting u in the face. The waves were so fun the swell was about 3 to 5 feet and as the tide dropped the swell picked up and started firing the take offs were steep and quick. I had a run in with a knee boarder(a surfer who surfs on his knees on a short board) he did not like the fact that I took off down the line on a wave he never would have made but he complained and I let him know that he would have never made that wave on his best day. I also offered him some special words of encourgement that I will not share with u but u can use your imagination. Other than that one bad experience it so much fun I was in the water for 3 hours today. Cold and windy but the sun came out and it turned into a 70 degree sunny day. Gave thanks and got out.

The Beginning

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My nickname is Boog
First and foremost I have surfed for 33 years. I have done this longer than any other activity in my life. I have been blessed with natural physical ability to pick up the sport when I was 18 yrs old. I played the traditional sports growing up. I lived 80 miles from the Pacific Ocean near the San Francisco Bay Area. I was going to be a football player and focused all my energy in that direction until I was injured at 17yrs old(a one in a thousand injury on the football field) the injury ended my football career but thank God I could still walk. It was before microscopic surgery, so they put my ankle back together and attached it to my leg again and after nine months I could walk again. I moved to Santa Cruz Ca once I graduated High School and started surfing and the rest is history. I have traveled and surfed various places around the world but most of my surfing has been in California. Time to go it is getting light and time to check the surf.

I went out at a place about a mile from my house, I call it cylinders because it produces tubes on a regular basis. Today was no different for the lucky the tube was up and running today. The way the waves were breaking at this particular spot the peak of the wave was moving because the sand on the rocks causes changes on the bottom all the time and the peak moves back and forth or will peak at the same time and break towards each other. Today the wind was blowing offshore but very cold in the morning and the water it was cold about 54 degrees it was a challenge to get motivated to put on the cold wetsuit and get in. I slid into the back of my truck which has a small shell so I could get out of the wind and change.
Once in the water I could tell the tide was dropping and the waves were breaking in shallow water and slamming hard on the sand. U want to make sure your not caught in there for any period of time because it will snap u and or your board. Today was more of a wind swell which means the waves were close together and consistent with very little time in between waves and sets. (Waves come in sets from three to 7 and even sometimes more depending on how powerful the swell is) today they were arriving in sets of 3 to 5 waves with short periods of time 5 minutes or less apart. The Sets were about head high today 4 to 6 foot.
This was so much fun many take offs with offshore winds holding up the face of the wave which allowed me time to move down the line with my 9ft Steward high performance long board. The best wave today was a set wave(the largest wave of the set) I took off on the outside the wave was lined up to break down the line in front of me with no time to cutback just pull a turn on the take off get your line and race across the face. As I approached the beach the wave started to form a cylinder or TUBE the perfection of the wave becomes overwhelming and I pull up into the tube and the silence of being inside happens for a brief second and the wave ends as I come flying out of the tube. My board is released under my feet I free fall into the white water it engulfed me and I pop to the surface stoked and ready to paddle back out. I surfed for another 20 minutes gave thanks and went in....lots of take offs today most of the waves were close outs!

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