My nickname is Boog
First and foremost I have surfed for 33 years. I have done this longer than any other activity in my life. I have been blessed with natural physical ability to pick up the sport when I was 18 yrs old. I played the traditional sports growing up. I lived 80 miles from the Pacific Ocean near the San Francisco Bay Area. I was going to be a football player and focused all my energy in that direction until I was injured at 17yrs old(a one in a thousand injury on the football field) the injury ended my football career but thank God I could still walk. It was before microscopic surgery, so they put my ankle back together and attached it to my leg again and after nine months I could walk again. I moved to Santa Cruz Ca once I graduated High School and started surfing and the rest is history. I have traveled and surfed various places around the world but most of my surfing has been in California. Time to go it is getting light and time to check the surf.
I went out at a place about a mile from my house, I call it cylinders because it produces tubes on a regular basis. Today was no different for the lucky the tube was up and running today. The way the waves were breaking at this particular spot the peak of the wave was moving because the sand on the rocks causes changes on the bottom all the time and the peak moves back and forth or will peak at the same time and break towards each other. Today the wind was blowing offshore but very cold in the morning and the water it was cold about 54 degrees it was a challenge to get motivated to put on the cold wetsuit and get in. I slid into the back of my truck which has a small shell so I could get out of the wind and change.
Once in the water I could tell the tide was dropping and the waves were breaking in shallow water and slamming hard on the sand. U want to make sure your not caught in there for any period of time because it will snap u and or your board. Today was more of a wind swell which means the waves were close together and consistent with very little time in between waves and sets. (Waves come in sets from three to 7 and even sometimes more depending on how powerful the swell is) today they were arriving in sets of 3 to 5 waves with short periods of time 5 minutes or less apart. The Sets were about head high today 4 to 6 foot.
This was so much fun many take offs with offshore winds holding up the face of the wave which allowed me time to move down the line with my 9ft Steward high performance long board. The best wave today was a set wave(the largest wave of the set) I took off on the outside the wave was lined up to break down the line in front of me with no time to cutback just pull a turn on the take off get your line and race across the face. As I approached the beach the wave started to form a cylinder or TUBE the perfection of the wave becomes overwhelming and I pull up into the tube and the silence of being inside happens for a brief second and the wave ends as I come flying out of the tube. My board is released under my feet I free fall into the white water it engulfed me and I pop to the surface stoked and ready to paddle back out. I surfed for another 20 minutes gave thanks and went in....lots of take offs today most of the waves were close outs!
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