The swell came up this morning and was a challenge. It was no easy paddle out for me today. The sets would not let up and the tide was low so I paid the price by taking about 25 waves on the head before I finally made it outside. Once outside I took off on a couple of big sets and I could see that it was only going to get better as the tide and swell worked together to produce some epic waves today, big and fast. I took out my gun today and left the long board behind. It was a good call I caught my quota and more I was stoked not to many people in the water and everyone was cool and having fun. I was so thankful so I gave my thanks and got out!
Tuesday this week I made the trip to the Santa Barbara Coastline called the Ranch. The only way to get in if you do not own property is to boat in. We launched at 7am and were in the water surfing about 8:30. We chugged up the coastline and there was no wind and the swell had dropped from the previous day. When we first arrived it was still high tide and the surf was OK but as the tide dropped and the swell jacked up to head high on the sets. Some sweet and clean sets were had by all it was only use three and one other boat with three. We all had a great time. We started back south about 1pm and stopped for one more session before we had to leave. We stopped and to my surprise it was head high and a couple of feet over head on the sets. This was powerful and fun I was slammed more than once but it was all good. We surfed for over an hour and that was about all I could do before my arms fell off.The place is so clean and peaceful no one around and the ocean was our playgrounds what fun for a bunch of men playing like boys...
What a rush! I found out that my injury was not that bad and required no additional doctors care. I waited long enough. I went to my favorite parking lot yesterday and the boys were standing around talking about how they had to go to work. It was glassy and the sets were rolling in about every 8 to 10 minutes head high and clean. Well it took me about 5 minutes to get my wetsuit on and Bam I was out there.
My first wave was my best I sat at the outside peak waiting for a big set wave and it only took a few minutes. I was in the perfect spot for the take off when I got to my feet I knew I had to stay high in the face to make the sections out in front of me. I stayed in the top third of the wave just low enough to keep from getting pitched over the falls. It was a gas I was flying and felt weightless and the force drove me to the beach in a matter of second I traveled about 150 yards.The crowd was light and friendly and my buddies were getting good ones all morning. I had a great time and look forward to this afternoon on the low tide I have my special spot only me and about 20 people will be there...
Feel the power and get in touch with your inner child SURF or whatever it is that keeps you young...
I have been on the IR (injured reserve) I tore a muscle in my right arm . I did it cutting down a tree that had suffered wind damage. I saved money on my tree and paid the price with my elbow. I will be going in for a MRI this week to find out exactly what happened to my elbow/muscle.I have not been up for writing so I just have not been doing it. If there is anyone out there who wants to contribute to my blog contact me at stewywho@yahoo.com and we can see if it applies. I am looking for anything related to surfing, ie movies, pics repair, design ideas or techniques anything as it relates to surfing. I would like to see this blog expand into other relms of the sport. So if you want to contribute I am open.... Keep the faith I will be back in the water soon...
AeroGarden
Yesterday was a planned go out. This particular place breaks on a low tide and big swell. Yesterday both those conditions along with the proper wind came together about noon. Since it was a Saturday and knowing how this place has only one outside take off zone I decided to get out early during the higher tide and avoid the crowd. So I paddled out about 11 am and it was the proper call. I was the first one in the water I parked were no one would know I was surfing and it worked. I surfed for about 30 minutes before the people started showing up. It was good for the entire time that I was in the water. This place breaks over the rocks and can be dangerous at times especially on high tide. I have damaged many a board at this spot pushing the limit going to far on the inside and getting tossed on the rocks. I am lucky nothing has happed to me but my boards have suffered. My wife was stuffed in the rocks only once and managed to get out with only scrapes and bruises. A lesson you never forget. At this place, the rock are stacked to create a jetty, each rock would fill up the bed of a full size pickup. Large objects like surfboards and people and easily get pushed in between or rolled over and get in very serious trouble in a split second.
I have a ton of respect for this place and always keep in mind that you must move quickly if you happen to get to close to the rocks.
The other side of the coin is, it breaks for about 150 yards on a good day, yesterday I rode a number of waves all the way in. It's a long paddle out but worth it, you get in good shape and ride long waves, what a deal. It got crowded and I rode my last wave all the way in gave thanks and got out...
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