Surfing on the Inside

Yesterday was a planned go out. This particular place breaks on a low tide and big swell. Yesterday both those conditions along with the proper wind came together about noon. Since it was a Saturday and knowing how this place has only one outside take off zone I decided to get out early during the higher tide and avoid the crowd. So I paddled out about 11 am and it was the proper call. I was the first one in the water I parked were no one would know I was surfing and it worked. I surfed for about 30 minutes before the people started showing up. It was good for the entire time that I was in the water. This place breaks over the rocks and can be dangerous at times especially on high tide. I have damaged many a board at this spot pushing the limit going to far on the inside and getting tossed on the rocks. I am lucky nothing has happed to me but my boards have suffered. My wife was stuffed in the rocks only once and managed to get out with only scrapes and bruises. A lesson you never forget. At this place, the rock are stacked to create a jetty, each rock would fill up the bed of a full size pickup. Large objects like surfboards and people and easily get pushed in between or rolled over and get in very serious trouble in a split second.

I have a ton of respect for this place and always keep in mind that you must move quickly if you happen to get to close to the rocks.

The other side of the coin is, it breaks for about 150 yards on a good day, yesterday I rode a number of waves all the way in. It's a long paddle out but worth it, you get in good shape and ride long waves, what a deal. It got crowded and I rode my last wave all the way in gave thanks and got out...

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