The swell came up this morning and was a challenge. It was no easy paddle out for me today. The sets would not let up and the tide was low so I paid the price by taking about 25 waves on the head before I finally made it outside. Once outside I took off on a couple of big sets and I could see that it was only going to get better as the tide and swell worked together to produce some epic waves today, big and fast. I took out my gun today and left the long board behind. It was a good call I caught my quota and more I was stoked not to many people in the water and everyone was cool and having fun. I was so thankful so I gave my thanks and got out!
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