Monday, March 24, 2008

Things Can Change Overnight

Life can be like a roller coaster and the swell just pushes it along.. What I am trying to say is as long as I can surf it makes the roller coaster ride more bearable. It is amazing how blessed we are living in California. I must say that with the state of the world today surfing again is paying off like a slot machine. Sometimes it hard for people to understand the life blood that flows thru a surfers veins. The excitement of harmonizing with nature is what it is all about. Weather conditions and physical conditions develop a map in your brain that keeps you on the hunt for more. It can be dangerous for your physical and also your mental and emotional well being. If you live the dream there is no alternative that will meet the need if you surf long enough. It becomes an addition that pushes you to continue to be a part of something you have no control over. The surfers life is one of rolling with the punches or seeking it out in various places around the world.

If you have a dream make sure you are healthy enough to enjoy it. I see to many people who put their dreams on the shelf and don't take a chance because they are afraid of failing or making a fool of themselves in front of friends and family. They fall out of shape because their jobs dictate how they live and what they do. Take a chance and learn from your own mistakes and don't make the same ones twice and you will be better because of the experience.

The last two surf sessions were off the jetty at dawn one day was epic and the next crap the roller coaster just keeps moving on.

Set yourself apart from the crowd by doing something and expect nothing in return today...
Peace

Saturday, March 22, 2008

Two sessions no blog

I have been in one of those funks that keep you from doing what you like. For some reason we do not treat ourselves like we should. In my case it has been one thing after another. The last two sessions have been spread apart and not so good. Last Saturday I went out at a low tide spot on high tide which means I did not get many waves but I did get a good work out and no one in the water. The down side is it was in a remote area that had lots of rocks and when you surf it on high tide there is a good chance you can wind up on those rocks if your not extra careful. I got the killer workout and it was all good.
Yesterday I did a local go out near my house. The wind was calm and the tide was good enough so my friend and I went out and had some shoulder to head high sets. It was a short session but I managed to meet my wave quota and get two really good ones. It always amazes me how the ocean always manages to produce fun waves even in less than conditions. In other words it is always a good go out as long as you get out there!

It is now Spring and time to plant the garden and grow your own greens....
Be good to yourself by helping others.


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Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Two days at the Parking Lot

The last two days I have been in the water at dawn. Daylight savings time took effect last Saturday so on Monday it was weird no one was at the Parking Lot. The sets were overhead and the tide was low. I wasted no time before the crowd would arrive. When I got into the line up I noticed how the low tide were causing the waves to pound the shore. I was a great go out not to many people showed up and all was good. The water and wind chill were hard to deal with I finally had to get out because I was soooooo cold.

Tuesday was a different story on the weather it was warm at dawn 62 with a slight offshore wind. The water even seemed to warm up a little. The waves were still coming in but it was a little smaller and less consistent. It was a great day by all and I managed to get the word from the boys in the parking lot I got the wave of the day so I felt good about that. I had other commitments I was in and out of there. Surfing is my exercise the best part is just getting in and the feeling you get when you get out of the cold conditions. The cold ocean will keep you hardy in spirit and soul.

You may never be what you hoped unless you have given it all you have...

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Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Back Home and Happy


Our friends in the picture on the right lost their anchor on the way out to this famous surf spot. These guys tried to use a large piece of concrete but they were being dragging around. They asked if they could tie off on our boat and we thought that would be the best thing to do. We were gald to help and they were stoked. We all surfed our buts off for about 3 hours and it all was good.
It is always hard to come back to the crowds...I did it today and after having a great week I took it in stride. There were a few waves today but it was crowded and people were jonesing for waves. I caught a few good ones when I first hit the water. I waited and you guessed it I was rewarded. It was a fun day and I was so thankful just to be back home. The waves were about head high and some of the set waves carried thru into the inside. I caught a great wave for my last one got out and gave thanks....
Keep your mind on positive things and your energy will attract good people into your life.
Peace

Tuesday, March 4, 2008

Boat Trip Overnight with Greenflash Sunset

I was lucky enough to get invited to go along with a friend for a short surf trip. Just the two of us and uncrowded surf conditions. We launched on Sunday in the late morning and arrived at our destination in the Santa Barbara Channel about 11am. When we arrived the tide was still a bit high but the waves were going off. We did not wait long before we were in the water and surfing for about 3 hours. We were feeling so good catching beautiful waves in warm offshore conditions. Then you paddle back over to the boat take your wetsuit off and soak some rays. Eat great food and have a cold one, life doesn't get much better. At the end of the day I decided to take a couple of pictures and by chance I captured the greenflash. I went to catch a few waves and that I did but the bonus was the pictures of a lifetime!

Go to the bottom of the page to see the Greenflash Sunset. The pics on the left had to shrink down and lost the green line.
Go to the bottom to see larger picture.

The green flash is an atmospheric refractive
phenomenon where the top edge of the Sun will
momentarily turn green. It is seen rarely by the naked
eye, primarily because it requires specific conditions
to occur, but also because it requires the observer to
know what to look for. Despite the name, there is no
"flash"; the event only lasts from a fraction of a
second to at the longest, a few seconds.

The basic cause for the green flash is that refraction
bends the light of the Sun. The atmosphere acts like a
weak prism, separating the light into different
colors. Bluer light is bent more strongly than red
light. However, the amount of refraction even at the
horizon is quite small: only a few seconds of arc (one
second of arc is 1/3600th of a degree). This effect is
magnified by the atmosphere itself. Layering in the
atmosphere causes an effect similar to a horizontal
cylindrical lens: the separation of the color bands is
exaggerated in the vertical direction, so that the
separation can be up to several minutes of arc.

What conditions are required to see the green flash?
The green flash is best observed when you have a clear
view of the horizon uncluttered by foreground objects
and pollution free. This usually means you need to see
a distance of several miles "out", almost to the point
where the curvature of the Earth defines the limit.
This is primarily why stories of seeing the green
flash frequently occur at the ocean. This is due to
the additional amount of atmosphere one is looking
through at the horizon when the Sun is setting. In
addition - and equally important - is the fact that
the line of sight is nearly parallel to the horizon.

OK, then, why is it called a "green" flash and not a
"blue" flash? Because contamination in the atmosphere
scatters blue light removing it from the line of
sight. More green light gets through and therefore is
more clearly seen. In extraordinary conditions, a
"blue" flash might be seen.

Actually, all celestial objects experience the same
effect near the horizon; it is possible to see "green
flashes" from the setting Moon, Venus, or bright star
s
like Sirius.