Life can be like a roller coaster and the swell just pushes it along.. What I am trying to say is as long as I can surf it makes the roller coaster ride more bearable. It is amazing how blessed we are living in California. I must say that with the state of the world today surfing again is paying off like a slot machine. Sometimes it hard for people to understand the life blood that flows thru a surfers veins. The excitement of harmonizing with nature is what it is all about. Weather conditions and physical conditions develop a map in your brain that keeps you on the hunt for more. It can be dangerous for your physical and also your mental and emotional well being. If you live the dream there is no alternative that will meet the need if you surf long enough. It becomes an addition that pushes you to continue to be a part of something you have no control over. The surfers life is one of rolling with the punches or seeking it out in various places around the world.
If you have a dream make sure you are healthy enough to enjoy it. I see to many people who put their dreams on the shelf and don't take a chance because they are afraid of failing or making a fool of themselves in front of friends and family. They fall out of shape because their jobs dictate how they live and what they do. Take a chance and learn from your own mistakes and don't make the same ones twice and you will be better because of the experience.
The last two surf sessions were off the jetty at dawn one day was epic and the next crap the roller coaster just keeps moving on.
Set yourself apart from the crowd by doing something and expect nothing in return today...
Peace
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