Local Day with Good Size

I was presently surprised today as I went to my favorite spot but it just did not look appealing so I decided to head back home and see what was going on in the hood. It was definably the call. I caught some smoking waves today overhead and screaming down the line. I had three or four that were quick turns on the take off and stay up in the lip to make the screaming sections. I hit all the moves today floater, side slip or free fall, extrema take offs with the tide dropping it was all that and a bag of chips. Days like today surprise you all I wanted was to get wet and ended up getting so many fun waves I can only be thankful and I feel very fortunate that I get to experience this in my life at this point in my life. I will not be lacking for stories when I hit the rocking chair...

Keep the faith and do what you do best!

Make your own beer...