The last couple of days have been rainy and stormy but today was crisp and clean. The waves are up and in my secret spot at noon no one was home! My two buddies and I plus all the waves we could surf for about 1 hour before others showed up, even then there were plenty for all. The conditions were sweet, no wind, glassy and consistent.
Today was one of those days I cherish. Not so much about the conditions as it is the people in the water. What a difference it makes when you are with friends who share and it is not about the pecking order, don't get me wrong because I am big on the pecking order. If u are in position its yours but to be greedy and not let others get in on the fun it is bad ju ju, no weno, bad Karma etc etc...
There is a big difference when people share and get along and being in the water is no different. The lesson learned in life come true in the water. It is real hard to fake it in the ocean. It is the proving ground for those who test themselves. If u think it is all fun and games think again when it get serious people can die.
With pleasure come pain, if now is your time to shine then do it and don't hold back.
My favorite saying in Surfing is..... HE WHO HESITATES IS LOST
Just go for it and commit yourself to yourself and u will be the best judge of all
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