Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Rain Rain and More Rain

No Surf today it is a mixed up jumbled up mess. The winter rain is here, we always look forward to any precipitation we can get in Central California.

Today I want to write about what has motivated me and others who dedicate ourselves to a sport that has a pecking order on water where we don't necessarily belong. Like anything else in life if you really want something u have to work at it and be patient with yourself and others who are effected by your dedication and discipline to achieve a goal. It helps to have a spouse who surfs and loves the water as I do!

When I started surfing in the 70's it was the time when the sport was really changing. The design and length were changing. People were going faster than ever and making radical moves and surfing larger waves in places people thought anyone could surf.

I could not help myself at 19 I was a ex-football player who had a 1 in 1,000 injury on the football field. It ended my career. I moved to Santa Cruz CA and started surfing. I picked up all sports prior to surfing with one try. This sport humbled me... I was muscle bound and my muscles would tie up and I would sink like a rock. I told myself I would never lift weights again and to this day I have never lifted weights again to get in shape. The ocean provides all the work out I could ever ask for and then some. Needless to say it took me almost six months to do the sport in its most basic fashion. Just to be able to paddle out catch a wave surf it to the end and paddle out for another with confidence and composure.

The water was not crowded then people were glad someone else was out because we had no leash or we had bungee cords that would spring the board at u at 100 MPH and nail u they did not last that long because more people were getting hurt it just was not practical.

Over the years since then I have raised two children who both attended college and I have retired from a traditional career to live my life out surfing and working on the Internet to make my surf lifestyle a dream come true for the rest of my surfing days....Check out my Beach Lifestyle Canoe Club!">cayucoscanoeclub.com
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for fun,video,music SWAG and so much more!

For some Excitment take sometime off and go somewhere!


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