Yesterday a friend of mine and I drove two hours to find some surf that was manageable for us. We would have stayed home but it was just too big for our comfort zone. However everybody and their brother was thinking the same thing. In all my 33 yrs of surfing that was the most people I have ever been in the water with at one time. The LA crowds have made it to SB. There were beautiful waves some sets as many as 20 waves in a row. I saw so many waves and they all had someone or someone dropping in on them. I managed to get about a half dozen or so but could have caught 20 more easily if it weren't for the crowds. I am dating myself but I have seen better days. The popularity of the sport and the fact that it has been introduced to the Internet has brought people on the pulse of the storms and wave conditions that would have only herd about it after. The old school of going out and looking at the ocean or your favorite spots is past. Get on the Internet check out all the variables and know exactly where to go based on the weather info and swell conditions.
It was awesome just being in the water and seeing all the surfers enjoying what they were given.
The ocean pecking order was convoluted yesterday but the sport of Kings will live on......
Just a note for Peter
Davi who died out in this swell Tuesday
. He was a big wave rider and he went out the way of a true warrior. He will be missed and remember by many.
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