I am Back to Finish out the Year!

I have been gone for a few days working and with family over it has been hard to get into the clubhouse to put down my Journal.

The surf has been off and on for the last few days. I went out on Christmas Day with my wife, daughter and her Bo. We went out at the Pier, it was big and consistent. The shape was not all that good but every 10 minutes a good wave would make it's way through to the beach. It was so much fun surfing with the family I really enjoyed the fact it was only us plus a few friends. It was a great way to start the day before we got into the presents and all that food. It was a great Christmas Day we all got waves, presents and ate like kings.

Today the surf was meager the sets had little shape hitting the shallow shoreline and slamming down hard. It was difficult to get into the pocket because there was so little time to surf before it closed out on the beach. I pearled on one wave and it tweaked my back but nothing bad. It was one of those days that the best part of surfing is how you feel when you get out. That explains it for me today. I had not been in the water for 4 days and it sure felt good to get back and then to relax after getting out. (The Good Life)

Keep your eye on the destination, things happen quickly life will leave you wondering what happened unless you take action. The metaphors I get from surfing have helped me in my personal and business life. In order to make things happen you need to go for it, do not hesitate or deliberate to long. ONCE YOU PADDLE IN YOU CAN ONLY REACT TO WHAT THE WAVE WILL GIVE YOU, LIFE IS THE SAME WAY. PEOPLE IN BUSINESS HAVE TO DEAL WITH SHARKS WITHIN THEIR OWN COMPANY. I WILL NOT HARP ON THE FACT THAT NO MATTER WHERE YOU ARE OR WHO YOUR WORKING WITH THE STORY REMAINS THE SAME. TAKE ACTION AND LEARN HOW TO REACT TO PEOPLE AND STRESSFUL SITUATIONS WHEN THEY COME UP.

REACTION TIME IS NOW! ENJOY LIFE AND GO FOR IT EVEN IF IT MEANS NO GUARANTEE.

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Are We Having Fun Yet?

Hell ya!
The last couple of days have been rainy and stormy but today was crisp and clean. The waves are up and in my secret spot at noon no one was home! My two buddies and I plus all the waves we could surf for about 1 hour before others showed up, even then there were plenty for all. The conditions were sweet, no wind, glassy and consistent.

Today was one of those days I cherish. Not so much about the conditions as it is the people in the water. What a difference it makes when you are with friends who share and it is not about the pecking order, don't get me wrong because I am big on the pecking order. If u are in position its yours but to be greedy and not let others get in on the fun it is bad ju ju, no weno, bad Karma etc etc...

There is a big difference when people share and get along and being in the water is no different. The lesson learned in life come true in the water. It is real hard to fake it in the ocean. It is the proving ground for those who test themselves. If u think it is all fun and games think again when it get serious people can die.

With pleasure come pain, if now is your time to shine then do it and don't hold back.
My favorite saying in Surfing is..... HE WHO HESITATES IS LOST

Just go for it and commit yourself to yourself and u will be the best judge of all

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Rain Rain and More Rain

No Surf today it is a mixed up jumbled up mess. The winter rain is here, we always look forward to any precipitation we can get in Central California.

Today I want to write about what has motivated me and others who dedicate ourselves to a sport that has a pecking order on water where we don't necessarily belong. Like anything else in life if you really want something u have to work at it and be patient with yourself and others who are effected by your dedication and discipline to achieve a goal. It helps to have a spouse who surfs and loves the water as I do!

When I started surfing in the 70's it was the time when the sport was really changing. The design and length were changing. People were going faster than ever and making radical moves and surfing larger waves in places people thought anyone could surf.

I could not help myself at 19 I was a ex-football player who had a 1 in 1,000 injury on the football field. It ended my career. I moved to Santa Cruz CA and started surfing. I picked up all sports prior to surfing with one try. This sport humbled me... I was muscle bound and my muscles would tie up and I would sink like a rock. I told myself I would never lift weights again and to this day I have never lifted weights again to get in shape. The ocean provides all the work out I could ever ask for and then some. Needless to say it took me almost six months to do the sport in its most basic fashion. Just to be able to paddle out catch a wave surf it to the end and paddle out for another with confidence and composure.

The water was not crowded then people were glad someone else was out because we had no leash or we had bungee cords that would spring the board at u at 100 MPH and nail u they did not last that long because more people were getting hurt it just was not practical.

Over the years since then I have raised two children who both attended college and I have retired from a traditional career to live my life out surfing and working on the Internet to make my surf lifestyle a dream come true for the rest of my surfing days....Check out my Beach Lifestyle Canoe Club!">cayucoscanoeclub.com

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For some Excitment take sometime off and go somewhere!

Sunday Crowds & Some Size

It was COLD today at the beach. We normally do not get into the 30's around here but today was an exception. The frost was everywhere when I drove to my favorite spot only to find 10 people in the water by dawn. There was good reason the sets were marching in like soldiers going to battle. I was not real quick to get my wetsuit on because it was freezing cold and my wetsuit was wet and cold from hanging outside over night.

I hung out with my friends for about an hour before the sun was up and it started to warm a little. Once I got into the water it was calm and warm in my estimation. Warmer than the air that is for sure. It was semi crowded but I went out and picked off a couple right out the gates. These waves were a little over head but they had some punch to them.

It was so much fun the only down side is people in this popular spot don't always know how to surf or they don't know the etiquette. This is the dangerous part because if they do not know what to do in a critical situation someone is going to get hurt.
Enough said on Sunday it is expected. I had fun gave my thanks and said CYA all...

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Saturday Surfing

I had a busy week no surf Monday Thru Friday only work. I must say today was a great day for a Saturday, I waited until the tide came up and went out about 11am. Most of the crowd was gone and only a few people spread out nobody was sitting on top of each other. The water was clean and u could see the bottom as u paddeled out and when I surfed the waves.

Today was sunny the water was warm there was no wind to speak of. The Faces of the waves were so clean. I enjoyed the friendly crowd people were having a good time. I surfed about two hours it sure felt good to get back in the water. I have been addicted to surfing for many years. It seems to me that the limited time we have on this earth we must be doing what we love even if it is only on the weekends. I raised two children and missed a ton of days but I always made the extra effort to go early in the mornings so I could make it to work on time.

Too Cold Too Small Too Old

You think I am Crazy when I was younger yes... Today No I am going to sit this one out it is so small and cold the wind is blowing (no warm trade winds here) off shore. Today is a good day to bundle up and stay dry. This is a day for surfers to do something else like work. I know that will mess up a perfectly good surf schedule. The work must be done and for those who work in the surf industry another day another dollar. I like the fact that I have always separated surf with work or money. I have tried surf related items like clothing etc. I have kept surfing my sole place where my focus is only on the waves and when I am in the water I blank out all the things that take place on land and leave them there to the best of my ability. It takes 100% of my concentration when it is going off. My experience(old fart)has proven it time and time again. The sharpening of your focus skills is what it is all about. Block out all other agenda and have fun doing it.

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To Cold To Go

It is early morning and I can't get myself to think about going in the water until the sun comes up.
Normally I would be there but I have been working a lot and my passion wants to stay warm and the mornings are not cooperating. It has been two days in a row without surf for me. I may still go but I doubt it because I have other commitments today. This is the pain of working and surfing they are like oil and water they have a hard time coexisting.

Keep your focus on doing what u love and everything will work out...

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Sunday Session

Early morning go out after late go out yesterday. Today is Sunday and I have commitments and need to get in and out in the morning if I want to get wet today. So I did and it was not crowded for a Sunday and the waves had a little juice still in them. I surfed for about 90 minutes and had three waves that made my day. It was sunny offshore and cold! Gave Thanks and got out!

Today is another sad day for the loss of another fine Individual who had an effect on so many lives. This individuals was Patty Silvera who was a local Secretary at our school. She worked for 30 years in a small community and she was there for my two children. The crowning moment for us was when our son who was in second grade was hurt at school and she supplied the mothering skills that kept us all in check. Hundreds of people showed up today at her celebration at our local Veterans Hall. I was especially touched by her just getting to talk to her for only a few minutes on a regular basis at 6am in the morning. Her positive voice and warm tone always made me feel special. Oh yea my wife has worked with her substituting and working with Patty closely for so many years we are deeply touched by this loss. You see she was only 60 and it happened over the weekend and it was like an earthquake in our community. It was pointed out today that it is extraordinary and when people who are good and they pass early or late. When those who do evil or those who's only concern is for themselves leave nothing behind. This Woman was an example to us all to check ourselves and make sure u are helping others with nothing expected in return.
God Bless and Good luck out there....
Remember give thanks and get out!

Surf Till Dark

Today was a cold and windy day. The swell is still up at my usual spot and to big and blown to surf. This means finding the place where the weather and swell can come together and produce a few fun ones for the crew. Guess what that is just what happened today. A small group of us who all know each other had the pleasure of sharing the windy conditions and a ton of waves. They were coming in like a machine for awhile. This place requires that you paddle across a fairly large body of water with the tide dropping u get sucked out to sea if you are not careful. The tide was going to a minus and it was moving quickly. The wind was blowing really hard with gusts that could move u standing still. Once there the rest is history shoulder high fun waves were had by all. It was a classic winter day here in Central Cal. Surfed till Dark gave thanks and made the journey back to the warm and cozy home...

No Surf Days 12-6 and 12-7

Time to get work done and take care of business so I can surf when it's good again. Stormy conditions and lots of wind. A few showers and cold makes it a perfect time to start a fire fill up the coffee cup and write up a business plan. Time is moving rapidly as we head twards the holidays. I am doing all my shopping for the first time online.
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Big Wednesday in Santa Barbara

Yesterday a friend of mine and I drove two hours to find some surf that was manageable for us. We would have stayed home but it was just too big for our comfort zone. However everybody and their brother was thinking the same thing. In all my 33 yrs of surfing that was the most people I have ever been in the water with at one time. The LA crowds have made it to SB. There were beautiful waves some sets as many as 20 waves in a row. I saw so many waves and they all had someone or someone dropping in on them. I managed to get about a half dozen or so but could have caught 20 more easily if it weren't for the crowds. I am dating myself but I have seen better days. The popularity of the sport and the fact that it has been introduced to the Internet has brought people on the pulse of the storms and wave conditions that would have only herd about it after. The old school of going out and looking at the ocean or your favorite spots is past. Get on the Internet check out all the variables and know exactly where to go based on the weather info and swell conditions.
It was awesome just being in the water and seeing all the surfers enjoying what they were given.
The ocean pecking order was convoluted yesterday but the sport of Kings will live on......

Just a note for Peter Davi who died out in this swell Tuesday. He was a big wave rider and he went out the way of a true warrior. He will be missed and remember by many.

12-4-07

Building Tuesday. The waves jumped up overnight to about 12 to 15 ft today. They are expected to top 25ft tomorrow. I looked and looked today but decided it was to big and mixed up inside the harbor. People were out but no one was getting anymore than a big drop with very little shape to follow. I hung out and watched as the giant waves break outside the harbor mouth and worked their way into shore. People were out in various places a finger jetty, a break wall jetty and then south jetty all had someone there waiting and hoping for a big ride. Beautiful sunny day and everyone was out to enjoy the day and watch the big waves. I went for a couple taco treats and then home....maybe tomorrow a drive south?
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12-3-07

Today was a good day! I waited until about 8:30 to go out because it was so cold. When I pulled up to the parking lot the lines were coming in. I did not hesitate to go out. I put on my wetsuit as fast as I could get it on. I was in a hurry because a friend of mine called me and let me know it was going off. I went out and the waves were building the tide was dropping and it was glassy. The conditions were ripe and I was ready to pick off a couple clean ones. I did that very thing I was out in the water for 3 hours today. The set waves were head high and clean, the wind was calm and much fun was had by all! I could not paddle anymore and it was time to go. I gave my thanks and got out.
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12-2-07

No Surf for me again today. Just hang around the house it is a cold day good time to start a fire and watch some Sunday Sports. The swell will start arriving tomorrow. In the meantime check out anything you can think of on Amazon.. I just purchased two Giant Wave Poster for Christmas Presents.

12-1-07

Another no surf day again for me :( It was crowded and the tide was low in the morning here at home. The water was semi crowded with very few waves. The swell is picking up and next week it supposed to get giant like 20ft range. I will be surfing in a protected area that will take swell of that size and make it manageable 8 to 10 waves. I will get my rest and eat the proper food and not drink to much so I can log a few more in....
For now I am bidding for Tommy Bahama Shirts for Christmas Gifts
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11-30-07

No surf day stormy and cold. The swell is coming we just have to wait. Good time to get some work done. Tommy Bahama Shirts for Christmas Presents at reduced prices go for it!

11-29-07

Today was what I call a go out day. You go out to stay in shape and keep your timing sharp. I caught a couple when I first paddled out the wind was blowing off shore the water was cold and it was pretty inconsistent. It was not to crowded because there were not that many waves. It was a short go out but I felt much better once I got dressed. Another great day in my little beach town.

11/27.07

It was cold this morning at 6:45 when I left the house. The swell has dropped about 2 ft and the wind is blowing offshore and cold. I did not hang out my wetsuit last night and it is wet and cold. I went out to my favorite spot and there were very few people in the water. The sets were coming in waist to shoulder high. Not to much to get excited about but it warmed up a little and fun was had by all. I Surfed with a couple of my buddy's which is always fun to share the wealth!

11/25/07 and 11/26/07

11/25/07 The surf was too big and closing out so my regular places were not happening however I do have a spot I go to on big swells but it only breaks on low tide. Low tide was not until 4:30pm. I decided to wait and when I went back about 2:30 the spot was packed with people. Not just any people but all the locals who know how to surf that spot with only one or two take off spots it becomes a challenge to just get a wave. So about 15 people were out and I decided to wait until the last hour of the day. I went out at 4pm surfed until 6pm 30 minutes after dark. This place has rocks all over. There were only 8 people left out by the time I was at the peak. I had a ton of fun surfed about a dozen waves and the last two were in the dark. There was cloud cover and u could not see he face of the wave it was a black surface and I was surfing on feel. I gave thanks and got out...

11/26/07
I was back at it first thing in the morning at my favorite spot we will call parking lots. Today was much bigger it was well over head and almost double overhead on some of the sets. I went out early about 7am and took off on some big mambos! The wave of the day for me was about a 12 ft face top to bottom on the front of the wave. I took off in perfect position and made the drop and turned into a very large face with about 75 yards in front of me was a tapered wall just waiting for me to rip across the face. I made four cutbacks on this monster and on the inside I came off a slight bump in the wave and fell. That was the big daddy for me today. I took off on a few more waves and was getting tired since I was out until dark the night before. I had my board ripped out of my hands on a big set and my leash broke. My board was washed in and I had to swim for about ten minutes in big surf no fun at 51 yrs old. I called a buddy of mine over to me t0 let me hold on to his board for a minute to rest. He came and made sure I was OK. I had a slight cramp in my hamstring in my left leg. This really put the scare in me but I made it in and all is good for another day. I gave my thanks and got out tired and stoked!

11-24-07

Today I made it out about 9:30 just down the street. The swell has dropped down to 2 to 3 feet with occasional shoulder high wave. It was sunny and offshore again today. The water was cold and clear the wind was warn. I surfed with my Wife and Daughter and her boyfriend. It has been fun to spend time in the water together we are making memories to last a lifetime. It is always a better day after surfing....give thanks and get out.

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Happy Thanksgiving

Its early and still dark outside. I hope to get in the water for about a hour before we do our Turkey Day Drive. Type in surf books below and see some great books for gifts or your personal collection.


I went out with my wife, daughter and her boyfriend for the Thanksgiving Day surfing cup award. It was only the four of us down the street from our house. The surf was small but the shape was clean and fun. We surfed for about 90 minutes, we all caught some juicy waves hooting and howling for each other. My wife gave out the awards at dinner later that day . It was so much fun surfing with my family, I look forward to some travels with my wife who is a great body boarder and friend to this surf junkie.
We all gave thinks and got out of the water ready for our Turkey Day drive.

11-21-07

Today the winds were too much of a good thing! It was blowing so hard I had to close my eyes at the take off on some of the waves because it was like bullets hitting u in the face. The waves were so fun the swell was about 3 to 5 feet and as the tide dropped the swell picked up and started firing the take offs were steep and quick. I had a run in with a knee boarder(a surfer who surfs on his knees on a short board) he did not like the fact that I took off down the line on a wave he never would have made but he complained and I let him know that he would have never made that wave on his best day. I also offered him some special words of encourgement that I will not share with u but u can use your imagination. Other than that one bad experience it so much fun I was in the water for 3 hours today. Cold and windy but the sun came out and it turned into a 70 degree sunny day. Gave thanks and got out.

The Beginning

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My nickname is Boog
First and foremost I have surfed for 33 years. I have done this longer than any other activity in my life. I have been blessed with natural physical ability to pick up the sport when I was 18 yrs old. I played the traditional sports growing up. I lived 80 miles from the Pacific Ocean near the San Francisco Bay Area. I was going to be a football player and focused all my energy in that direction until I was injured at 17yrs old(a one in a thousand injury on the football field) the injury ended my football career but thank God I could still walk. It was before microscopic surgery, so they put my ankle back together and attached it to my leg again and after nine months I could walk again. I moved to Santa Cruz Ca once I graduated High School and started surfing and the rest is history. I have traveled and surfed various places around the world but most of my surfing has been in California. Time to go it is getting light and time to check the surf.

I went out at a place about a mile from my house, I call it cylinders because it produces tubes on a regular basis. Today was no different for the lucky the tube was up and running today. The way the waves were breaking at this particular spot the peak of the wave was moving because the sand on the rocks causes changes on the bottom all the time and the peak moves back and forth or will peak at the same time and break towards each other. Today the wind was blowing offshore but very cold in the morning and the water it was cold about 54 degrees it was a challenge to get motivated to put on the cold wetsuit and get in. I slid into the back of my truck which has a small shell so I could get out of the wind and change.
Once in the water I could tell the tide was dropping and the waves were breaking in shallow water and slamming hard on the sand. U want to make sure your not caught in there for any period of time because it will snap u and or your board. Today was more of a wind swell which means the waves were close together and consistent with very little time in between waves and sets. (Waves come in sets from three to 7 and even sometimes more depending on how powerful the swell is) today they were arriving in sets of 3 to 5 waves with short periods of time 5 minutes or less apart. The Sets were about head high today 4 to 6 foot.
This was so much fun many take offs with offshore winds holding up the face of the wave which allowed me time to move down the line with my 9ft Steward high performance long board. The best wave today was a set wave(the largest wave of the set) I took off on the outside the wave was lined up to break down the line in front of me with no time to cutback just pull a turn on the take off get your line and race across the face. As I approached the beach the wave started to form a cylinder or TUBE the perfection of the wave becomes overwhelming and I pull up into the tube and the silence of being inside happens for a brief second and the wave ends as I come flying out of the tube. My board is released under my feet I free fall into the white water it engulfed me and I pop to the surface stoked and ready to paddle back out. I surfed for another 20 minutes gave thanks and went in....lots of take offs today most of the waves were close outs!

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