Local Day with Good Size

I was presently surprised today as I went to my favorite spot but it just did not look appealing so I decided to head back home and see what was going on in the hood. It was definably the call. I caught some smoking waves today overhead and screaming down the line. I had three or four that were quick turns on the take off and stay up in the lip to make the screaming sections. I hit all the moves today floater, side slip or free fall, extrema take offs with the tide dropping it was all that and a bag of chips. Days like today surprise you all I wanted was to get wet and ended up getting so many fun waves I can only be thankful and I feel very fortunate that I get to experience this in my life at this point in my life. I will not be lacking for stories when I hit the rocking chair...

Keep the faith and do what you do best!

Make your own beer...

The Last Two Days

I had to make a business trip to the Bay Area so I always try to plan it so I can stop by the spot I learned to surf at. Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz the surf capital of the Northern California. I was surfing there in the 70's when you were glad to see someone else in the water. It was a time when surfing was making a transition from long boards to short with Twin and Tri Fins. Back then the same 6 to 10 guys on the peak every morning we all looked out for each other and shared a common bond when the sport was not so popular.
Today however it has changed dramatically, when the waves are going off it is the same 75 people in the water. I try to avoid those situations but find myself going out anyway because the waves are so good so long and consistent it is hard to stay out. On Monday I arrived at the Point about 2:30 and it was not so good nor was it crowded. I made a quick decision to go out and surfed for a little over an hour. It was fun the people were friendly and it was primarily long boards. The peak was shifting back and forth but there were waves and it was a great experience. I got out in time managed to get a quick bite to eat and made it to my meeting one minute late!

Tuesday I was back home and went down to the parking lot early and no one was out. The waves were shoulder to head high and coming in about 10 minutes apart. I went out, caught about a dozen waves, and I was surprised that only a few others made it out. It was a good exercise session and put me in the right frame of mind to face my day. I gave my thanks and went about my day....

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South Winds a Blowing

Today was a windy day from the start. I arrived at my favorite spot about 30 minutes before low tide. The wind was howling off shore and it was cold. The parking lot had not filled up for a Sunday but people were loading in the water. I decided to make a quick decision and go out. The conditions were fun I ended up going way down the beach because it was bigger and less people were there. It continued to build as the minutes went by I found myself stroking hard for the outside more than once to keep from getting a big wave on the head. The first reward was this double overhead bomber going left. With the wind blowing hard up the face of the wave and my 9ft long board going against the wind during the take off I was blinded. Bullets of water piercing my eyes as I got up to my feet in an instant I was looking at a big open face and I could hear guys hooting and howling as I pulled into a freight train of a wave turning up the face to get speed with smooth turns and tons of speed I took it all the way to the beach. What a rush it was so good and then to make it better, a large right peak came right at me I turned around and managed to make the take off. It was a perfect shaped wave moving so rapidly I only could come up to the top so I could draw a straight line and make the second section and kick out. I caught other waves today but the two fore mentioned waves made my day....

A Couple Short Stories and a Picture Peru

That afternoon we made it to the famed Chicama. We
watched 17 waves stack to the horizon. Steve & Eric
hopped off at their first chance of surf. Magoo,
Mackie and I were dropped off at the top of the
point. This wave is so unbelievable. We were getting
rides two to three minutes long. There were fast
barrel sections, lazy areas for cruising and THIRTY
SECOND NOSE RIDES! It took us thirty minutes to run
back up to the top of the point. The best part was
that there was no one out! We surfed till our arms
fell off!

We had a wonderful surf at Chicama, a nice five foot
wave but pure hell....have you ever had your legs
actually go out on you ON A WAVE? You could not
physically surf the whole wave, it is impossible.
I've missed more tube rides, off the lips on one wave
at chicama than a week long trip at natividad because
i had noodle legs. What a helpless feeling being on a
wave and physically tired to the point of barely
standing up. You hear stories of the longest wave in
the world well i don't know what's the longest wave
but that's how long that wave is.

Sooooooo long you can't surf it and it's barely head high.

I got the call yesterday...

I just finished lunch when my phone rang and it was one of my surf buddies at my favorite spot telling me it was working, glassy, no wind and peeling like cylinders. I was working and found a way to convince myself it was time to take a break and get some stoke. That took all of about 30 seconds of thinking about the conditions and how it was a window that I could not pass up. So what did I do, you guessed it, I went out. There was about 15 people on one spot but down the beach just a few spread out and it was bigger down there as a south was effecting the swell and causing it to wrap down the beach. I was correct it was going off down there and I had a blast with a couple of boys from town. The water was not too clean but what can I say when the conditions show themselves it is time to go. I surfed for about 90 minutes and work was calling so I gave my thanks and got out.

Today is a no go day. In the rain and wind I will work on my Internet businesses and keep the faith....

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It to Wet For Mee

My last Surf Session was Sunday the most crowded day of the week. This particular day was an extreme tide and the swell was coming in and breaking inside and mushy. The reason I went out was the one or two waves every 10 minutes that were head high and breaking with a slight offshore wind. There was only one person on it, a friend of mine, so bingo I went for the exercise. I know the stormy weather is on its way and most likely I will be out of the water during the major run off from the rains. After a heavy rain the pollution from the land flows into the water. In large metropolitan areas it is really bad. You can imagine all the pollutants that make there way into the break zone! I have been sick or had ear infections after surfing after storms. So the plan is to wait a couple of days and then charge it again. If the waves are really good I may go out but make sure that I am getting the proper rest and eating correctly and I should be fine. The main thing is the ears, water will make it's way in under pressure of the surf, it is not be able to get out and that polluted water gets bacteria growth and infected. That is the concern you must be careful and pay attention to any slight infection get it medicated or stay out because they will not go away if you continue to get into the water. So much for the surfer version of health care... Here is something worth checking out underground music in Cali...

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Last Saturday

It was Saturday morning and it was building, we have been having high tides in the early morning and it has been consistent with long waits. I was on this day, I sat outside and picked off the set waves with no one there, one after another. The conditions were great the waves were about head high on the sets and everyone was having a good time.

When you get into your fifties your mind keeps putting out the orders but the body will sometimes not get the message and you end up struggling to get it together and go with the flow. Saturday was not one of those days for me. I just did everything correctly and managed to do my dance with no one getting in my way or challenging me for the sets.

Little Feat one of my favorite Bands from the 70's wrote a song called YOUR MIND MAKES A PROMISE THAT YOUR BODY CAN'T FILL....

This sums it up as you grow older your mind wants to go forward but your body may not respond like your accustomed too. The point is simple you need to work out everyday if possible. The sport of Kings (surfing) has no time outs, no one to help you off the field and you must be in great shape or you will be pushed out or taken under. I live by this motto, you must challenge yourself everyday to keep yourself sharp and on the edge. The risk takers are the reward makers and if you have taken a risk and failed" you learn" and when you try again you know that your chances will increase with each effort. Surfing and life, what a metaphor for living, take calculated risks take yourself to the edge and take a look where few go and if you like what you see then keep going back for youth and vitality. Keep the body fit and you can abuse it to a certain extent. With the correct diet and exercise it becomes tomorrow not yesterday things may slip but they won't go away....

Keep yourself fit no matter what you do!

Two Days of Surf for me

Thursday was a great day the sun was out it was about 49 degrees and the wind was blowing offshore.
It was 7am and the parking lot started to fill up quickly. I did not feel like surfing with a crowd so I paddled down the beach.
I was stoked to get a few waves without the all the smiling faces. The waves were moving in with a slight hint of a south swell mixed in with the north west swell. I caught two large set waves during my two hours in the water that stood out from the rest. The both were moving rapidly down the line, vertical walls with the winds holding them up, they both broke all the way to the inside. It was a fun day and the conditions were on my side.

Friday was a journey day. A good friend of mine called me the night before asking me if I wanted to go north in the morning. I waited about a half second and said I will be ready at the crack of dawn. It was 6:30 am and the conditions were ripe, the wind was blowing slight offshore and the tide was just high. These conditions call for a special place about 45 minutes up the coast in a remote area. My friend is 44 and he grew up here and knows all the spots and all the stories. I have lived here for almost 30 years and saw something for the first time yesterday. We were about 25 minutes into our journey and my pal pulls off the side of the road and pointed to the hills. I was amazed to see a full herd of ELK one large Male with a large RACK on his head with about 15 females and 6 small ones. What a site we pulled out the Binoculars and viewed them in their element they were about 1 mile away but they were on the side of a hill with no trees they were in plain site.
Every time I drive up north the feeling of freedom overcomes me. The open space, the untouched raw land and the wild animals that have survived man's occupation. It is my recommendation that if you ever get the chance to drive from Monterey to San Luis Obispo on Hy 1 do it. People come from all over the world to experience it. You can just drive thru to LA or SF or camp or hike or stay in cabins lots of choices and beauty to experience. Oh yea, the surf it was not all that great, we expected to see some big overhead surf but it was still too high tide. We were there and we were going out. It was a park you car and walk about 1/4 miles down a cliff to the open beach in a remote area with no one home! We were so stoked with our little bit of freedom, just us and the elements. The waves had a little warble because the tide was still a bit high. We had a chill by the time we got into the water and it made the cold water seem warm. The wetsuits they make these days get the job done, your warm and you still have tremendous flexibility.
The waves did not preform all that well but I managed to get two smoking ones that made my day. This big open beach makes you pay the price of admission. The sand bars are nasty the waves break hard on sand with a strong under toe and make it difficult to paddle through. You had to be selective and make sure you got through the shore pound quickly or like I said you will pay the price by taking a 10 to 20 waves on the head to get past the break line.
We both managed to get our quota, we surfed for about 90 minutes and got out. A couple of young surfers we know showed up and they paddled out after we left. The changing of the guard they had it to themselves and we went back to civilization.

Low Tide and Slamming

Today was a go out for the conditioning. I went out yesterday and got super tired quickly. I did not surf so well but that is a sign of age. Once you hit your fifties you have good days and you have bad days. The body is a magnificent machine and if properly maintained it will last much longer when you need it. I was so tired yesterday it was an automatic reaction to suit up and get out there today. The sets were about 10 minutes apart but the low tide was in control. The take offs were steep and the ledges were hitting shallow water and compressing anything in its way, including me. I got out once rested for about 10 minutes and went back out caught three more waves the last one had a nice head high peak and it tapered down going left it was a good wave to give thanks and get out on, so I did.

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Today and Last Friday

Today it was go out or go crazy. I am still sane however the waves were not so good but the exercise was great. The last couple of days it was going off, well overhead and consistent.
The show was on in our little town all the best surfers in our area showed up and there were some awesome displays of tube ridding. The waves were hitting the sand bar off the pier and it was showing signs of perfection. I did not go out because of the size and the crowds. I have been there done that. I was bummed I must admit for not going out, but my better judgement was telling me CHILL OUT... so I did.
That is why today was a must surf for me..

Friday Jan 11 was my day, I did a double session and had so much fun. It was crowded but it was going off. I hit my quota for wave count and then some. I gave thanks and got out only to get back in three hours later. I surfed until my arms could no longer perform the task I was asking of them.
It was a great day with great waves a rare experience to be cherished..

Keep the faith and make your own beer

Early Morning Go Out

It was cold again, the waves dropped a couple of feet but the sets were coming in about every 10 minutes head high and over head. The conditions were epic a very slight offshore wind and glass all over.
The best part was only a couple other people came out and I pretty much had my pick of the litter as the sets rolled in. When the sun came up over the mountains it was so special. The clarity of it all was moving, it was crisp and clean the surface reflected the sunshine and I was feeling like the King.
The rest is history, I surfed for a little over an hour because I had commitments to attend to. If I did not I would have stayed another hour. What a start on the day, I felt great all day.

Keep yourself mentally fit by exercising your mind...don't forget to eat, drink and be merry.

Being There at Dawn

Yesterday I had to work and it was all time at one of my favorite spots. The stories were consistent from a couple of my friends who I know do not exaggerate to much. The thing about surfers is that they do have a tendency to exaggerate similar to fisherman and the size of that fish they caught surfers are the same way. So after hearing the stories I was convicted to go out first thing so I could make it to work on time. My best friend and I were there at dark she was in first and when I was done walking the dog I followed.
We were the only ones in the water for about 30 minutes and then another guy came out. I had fun on the lefts they were short but had a nice steep take off. It was by no means all time but it was fun and I was so happy to be there. The sunrise today was red and orange the scattered clouds in the sky put out a reflection that was like a fire in the sky.

I want to say it was a great feeling to go to work knowing I had experienced a whole days wroth of joy before most people even get out of bed.....I gave thanks and got out!

Keep yourself healthy by getting the proper exercise and diet and don't forget your rest.
I believe if you do this you will be one of the fortunate ones who get do enjoy the physical pleasures life into the later years when others fall by the wayside...

Make your own Beer

The Day After

Today it was a little smaller yet still big in most places and only a few places were holding the swell enough to make it work. If you go out in the wrong place in conditions like today you could be very sorry. The best case is you don't get any waves the worst case you get rescued or ?...

Needless to say the currents were running strong and the tide was dropping fast to a minus tide. This combined with the large swell and you have a recipe for success if you are in the place that will support those conditions. If you have local knowledge and make the move at the proper time u wind up where i surfed today. It was a long walk and a long paddle and when you come over the rise and see that your not the only one it still doesn't matter because the waves are coming in non stop. I went out and surfed and paddled until my arms were about to fall off. It was so fun and the crowd was so mellow it was all that and a bag of chips. I was stoked again and again.

So yesterday I turned another year older and we had some fun at home to much food and beer but being the old dude I was in bed early and ready to charge it in the morning. The swell and my schedule did not match and I had to wait until noon to get my turn today but it was well worth it.

Keep the faith and do what you do.....

Catch a vacation...

Nice Day No Surf

Today it was flat but I know a NW Swell is going to be hitting tonight and tomorrow. I am in the working mode and have little or no time for surf. The days are shorter and my time is limited by commitments I have made. The good news is the cold weather will bring large swells and that is something to dwell on when your working or there is no surf.

Not much to add today keep your head up and look out for creeps around the corner.

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The End and Another Beginning

Dec 31st was one on my best days of the year. I went out just looking to catch some stoke on the last day of the year. Well it turned out to be overhead and I was the only longboarder on the outside picking off all the set waves with no one to contend with. This is a rare experience for this place local to my home.

The wind was blowing hard offshore the water was cold I estimate 49F. The sets were a couple of feet overhead and looking like close outs. Needless to say the wind was holding them up long enough for me to fly across about 10 to 12 waves today. What a great way to finish off the year. It was not that crowded and only short boarders on the inside. So when the bombers came in I was there and with no one to contend with. The power and speed of those wave charged my batteries for a festive new years eve... I could not believe how good it was the last day of 2007 :-)

January 1st 2008
Today I went to the big parking lot. The sets were head high and looked fun to me. So without hesitation I put my suit on and paddled out. I was not looking for any guarantee just a couple fun ones to start off the year. Again I was rewarded with some serious waves and spent only a little over an hour in the water but my batteries were charged up again and I was ready to enjoy my first day of the year with a BBQ and a Beer.

I can only give thanks for the wonderful days when the sun is shinning the Sky's are clean and clear. I am a blessed soul, my surfing quota has been more that filled the past year. I was a lucky one to have the means to live out a dream of mine for many years, to surf for a year and hang out at home. I did my best to enjoy each day BBQ as often as possible and stand around a fire I arouses my primal instinct for survival....