It was Saturday morning and it was building, we have been having high tides in the early morning and it has been consistent with long waits. I was on this day, I sat outside and picked off the set waves with no one there, one after another. The conditions were great the waves were about head high on the sets and everyone was having a good time.
When you get into your fifties your mind keeps putting out the orders but the body will sometimes not get the message and you end up struggling to get it together and go with the flow. Saturday was not one of those days for me. I just did everything correctly and managed to do my dance with no one getting in my way or challenging me for the sets.
Little Feat one of my favorite Bands from the 70's wrote a song called YOUR MIND MAKES A PROMISE THAT YOUR BODY CAN'T FILL....
This sums it up as you grow older your mind wants to go forward but your body may not respond like your accustomed too. The point is simple you need to work out everyday if possible. The sport of Kings (surfing) has no time outs, no one to help you off the field and you must be in great shape or you will be pushed out or taken under. I live by this motto, you must challenge yourself everyday to keep yourself sharp and on the edge. The risk takers are the reward makers and if you have taken a risk and failed" you learn" and when you try again you know that your chances will increase with each effort. Surfing and life, what a metaphor for living, take calculated risks take yourself to the edge and take a look where few go and if you like what you see then keep going back for youth and vitality. Keep the body fit and you can abuse it to a certain extent. With the correct diet and exercise it becomes tomorrow not yesterday things may slip but they won't go away....
Keep yourself fit no matter what you do!
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1 comment:
The quote is accurate. The song title is "Old Folks Boogie". And Little Feat still play it occasionally.
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