watched 17 waves stack to the horizon. Steve & Eric
hopped off at their first chance of surf. Magoo,
Mackie and I were dropped off at the top of the
point. This wave is so unbelievable. We were getting
rides two to three minutes long. There were fast
barrel sections, lazy areas for cruising and THIRTY
SECOND NOSE RIDES! It took us thirty minutes to run
back up to the top of the point. The best part was
that there was no one out! We surfed till our arms
fell off!
We had a wonderful surf at Chicama, a nice five foot
wave but pure hell....have you ever had your legs
actually go out on you ON A WAVE? You could not
physically surf the whole wave, it is impossible.
I've missed more tube rides, off the lips on one wave
at chicama than a week long trip at natividad because
i had noodle legs. What a helpless feeling being on a
wave and physically tired to the point of barely
standing up. You hear stories of the longest wave in
the world well i don't know what's the longest wave
but that's how long that wave is.
Sooooooo long you can't surf it and it's barely head high.
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