The Day After

Today it was a little smaller yet still big in most places and only a few places were holding the swell enough to make it work. If you go out in the wrong place in conditions like today you could be very sorry. The best case is you don't get any waves the worst case you get rescued or ?...

Needless to say the currents were running strong and the tide was dropping fast to a minus tide. This combined with the large swell and you have a recipe for success if you are in the place that will support those conditions. If you have local knowledge and make the move at the proper time u wind up where i surfed today. It was a long walk and a long paddle and when you come over the rise and see that your not the only one it still doesn't matter because the waves are coming in non stop. I went out and surfed and paddled until my arms were about to fall off. It was so fun and the crowd was so mellow it was all that and a bag of chips. I was stoked again and again.

So yesterday I turned another year older and we had some fun at home to much food and beer but being the old dude I was in bed early and ready to charge it in the morning. The swell and my schedule did not match and I had to wait until noon to get my turn today but it was well worth it.

Keep the faith and do what you do.....

Catch a vacation...