South Winds a Blowing

Today was a windy day from the start. I arrived at my favorite spot about 30 minutes before low tide. The wind was howling off shore and it was cold. The parking lot had not filled up for a Sunday but people were loading in the water. I decided to make a quick decision and go out. The conditions were fun I ended up going way down the beach because it was bigger and less people were there. It continued to build as the minutes went by I found myself stroking hard for the outside more than once to keep from getting a big wave on the head. The first reward was this double overhead bomber going left. With the wind blowing hard up the face of the wave and my 9ft long board going against the wind during the take off I was blinded. Bullets of water piercing my eyes as I got up to my feet in an instant I was looking at a big open face and I could hear guys hooting and howling as I pulled into a freight train of a wave turning up the face to get speed with smooth turns and tons of speed I took it all the way to the beach. What a rush it was so good and then to make it better, a large right peak came right at me I turned around and managed to make the take off. It was a perfect shaped wave moving so rapidly I only could come up to the top so I could draw a straight line and make the second section and kick out. I caught other waves today but the two fore mentioned waves made my day....