The Last Two Days

I had to make a business trip to the Bay Area so I always try to plan it so I can stop by the spot I learned to surf at. Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz the surf capital of the Northern California. I was surfing there in the 70's when you were glad to see someone else in the water. It was a time when surfing was making a transition from long boards to short with Twin and Tri Fins. Back then the same 6 to 10 guys on the peak every morning we all looked out for each other and shared a common bond when the sport was not so popular.
Today however it has changed dramatically, when the waves are going off it is the same 75 people in the water. I try to avoid those situations but find myself going out anyway because the waves are so good so long and consistent it is hard to stay out. On Monday I arrived at the Point about 2:30 and it was not so good nor was it crowded. I made a quick decision to go out and surfed for a little over an hour. It was fun the people were friendly and it was primarily long boards. The peak was shifting back and forth but there were waves and it was a great experience. I got out in time managed to get a quick bite to eat and made it to my meeting one minute late!

Tuesday I was back home and went down to the parking lot early and no one was out. The waves were shoulder to head high and coming in about 10 minutes apart. I went out, caught about a dozen waves, and I was surprised that only a few others made it out. It was a good exercise session and put me in the right frame of mind to face my day. I gave my thanks and went about my day....

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