Dec 31st was one on my best days of the year. I went out just looking to catch some stoke on the last day of the year. Well it turned out to be overhead and I was the only longboarder on the outside picking off all the set waves with no one to contend with. This is a rare experience for this place local to my home.
The wind was blowing hard offshore the water was cold I estimate 49F. The sets were a couple of feet overhead and looking like close outs. Needless to say the wind was holding them up long enough for me to fly across about 10 to 12 waves today. What a great way to finish off the year. It was not that crowded and only short boarders on the inside. So when the bombers came in I was there and with no one to contend with. The power and speed of those wave charged my batteries for a festive new years eve... I could not believe how good it was the last day of 2007 :-)
January 1st 2008
Today I went to the big parking lot. The sets were head high and looked fun to me. So without hesitation I put my suit on and paddled out. I was not looking for any guarantee just a couple fun ones to start off the year. Again I was rewarded with some serious waves and spent only a little over an hour in the water but my batteries were charged up again and I was ready to enjoy my first day of the year with a BBQ and a Beer.
I can only give thanks for the wonderful days when the sun is shinning the Sky's are clean and clear. I am a blessed soul, my surfing quota has been more that filled the past year. I was a lucky one to have the means to live out a dream of mine for many years, to surf for a year and hang out at home. I did my best to enjoy each day BBQ as often as possible and stand around a fire I arouses my primal instinct for survival....
1 comment:
Glad that the last day of the year worked out so well for you. I like reading your journal and living vicariously through you out in the water.
Keep on pushing!
Straight ahead!
Bomber
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